Does anyone know what the runout specs are on the front forks? I cant find this anywhere? The steering doesnt seem right on a 09 zx14 I bought. I guy I bought it from told me it was laid down. I measured the runout and the right fork measured 50 microns out of round when measuring the lower tube compared to the upper. The Left fork measure 450 microns out. Im guessing the right hand is ok and the left isnt but maybe not? Just wondering if anyone knows these numbers. You can find the runout of the front axle shaft and other items online and in the service manual but not this stat. ANyone know?

The swiss watch drop is the front end. Where the manual says not to drop any sensor because there is a crystal component inside. Crack that she's DOA.

I walk away from crashed bikes but no one listens to turtle. So here we are. Very first 3 parts off the bike are:

1. Upper crown = The pinch takes up a twist and the one side is no longer level with the other side of the pinch in other words.

2. Lower crown = This has the stem at 90° to the lower crown and once that flex of the front wheel, the hit of the bars, this sends a lot of energy to this focal point.

3. Fork leg(s) = There is this indent, divot, crease right at the lower crown, where this is pinched off, the deflect of the wheel is going to send the divot in, the wrinkle to the 90° stem, the pinch is no longer squared, we roll one new fork leg against the one better number. So if 50 is a warp, 450 is less flex, the new fork dials in at 450, we only need the one fork, the energy did not transfer to the other fork, being the one tip over calls the other fork as salvage and the tipped side is junk: in other words.

4. Bump up the wheel against a wall, sidewalk, corner of a building, loosen all the parts and twist back straight? NFW! This now loads both sleeves in the forks. One drags in the fore, the other in the aft. Forks should be assembled with the legs in their static position, not under a stress load, I just schooled a chopper thread the same way is they get it, but still step on red carpet doing it their way... anyway you look at it.

5. Key words are, 'keep buying more bike is a crashed bike.'

Ok.Is that english? I measured the forks off the bike. I didnt do this with the forks on the bike so Its not just doing a realignment. I tried that. It helped but it still felt like something was off which is why I removed the forks and measured the runout. Still dont understand what you are saying...

http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/50aa38d1f8700226a4146774/front-fork

1. Replace: 44039/A
2. 44037
3. 44071/A and 71B/C
4. Inspect lower steering bearing race in frame for ball indents around the circumference of the race. Change all new races and bearings if you see this. See no bearing on the stem at 44037? Are you about to place a new ball surface on a used race and expect the bike to steer smoothly across the race, or the ball locks into those indents you hop out of. Oh, you are going to fell that soon enough, so says the turtle talk.
5. Repeat after me: I will not piss away money someone trying to straightening out the above parts, when I better listen to this hubeerichit, I do not question why my handlebars are heading northeast and my bike is riding straight north just a half a degree off from new.
6. Take a wire coat hanger, bend the wire in half so the bend is that curved the tips touch. Now, straighten out wire. Do you see an 'S' bend, yes or no? That's how your bent part returns to being bent back that way is once pressed into a part, you bend it, try to straighten it, look at that coat hanger wire one more time.
7. Do you see a bunch of stress cracks as you tried to take the S out, let alone make it as straight as it once was at one time.

Signed,

NOLTT

* Last updated by: Hub on 7/11/2014 @ 12:29 PM *

what does NOLTT stand for? I always wondered that. OH-- "no one listens to Turtle!"

poor turtle.

I don't know if runout is a relevant figure, since manufacturing tolerances could show runout differences in a brand-new tube, but the old school way was to disassemble the forks and roll the stanchion tubes on a perfectly flat surface to check visually for any wiggle. If that checks out ok, the next thing would be to check the triple clamps for center-to-center distance and offset from the pivot center. I would think the tubes are more likely to be bent than the clamps and that the lower clamp would be more likely bent than the upper. If all that checks out, reassemble and do the wheel-against-the-wall pump with everything but the upper clamp loose to align the parts in the fork with themselves and the axle.