The swiss watch drop is the front end. Where the manual says not to drop any sensor because there is a crystal component inside. Crack that she's DOA.
I walk away from crashed bikes but no one listens to turtle. So here we are. Very first 3 parts off the bike are:
1. Upper crown = The pinch takes up a twist and the one side is no longer level with the other side of the pinch in other words.
2. Lower crown = This has the stem at 90° to the lower crown and once that flex of the front wheel, the hit of the bars, this sends a lot of energy to this focal point.
3. Fork leg(s) = There is this indent, divot, crease right at the lower crown, where this is pinched off, the deflect of the wheel is going to send the divot in, the wrinkle to the 90° stem, the pinch is no longer squared, we roll one new fork leg against the one better number. So if 50 is a warp, 450 is less flex, the new fork dials in at 450, we only need the one fork, the energy did not transfer to the other fork, being the one tip over calls the other fork as salvage and the tipped side is junk: in other words.
4. Bump up the wheel against a wall, sidewalk, corner of a building, loosen all the parts and twist back straight? NFW! This now loads both sleeves in the forks. One drags in the fore, the other in the aft. Forks should be assembled with the legs in their static position, not under a stress load, I just schooled a chopper thread the same way is they get it, but still step on red carpet doing it their way... anyway you look at it.
5. Key words are, 'keep buying more bike is a crashed bike.'
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time