Hi All,

I have the following problem:
Seems just started getting colder when this happend. I start feeling less power when opening the throttle power, seems that the revs is less slowly getting to full rpm.
Next thing the head lights start flashing (all most like police flashing lights) funny for a second.
I then switch on the brights, big misstake doing 160 (no steet lights) and no lights on bike (only parking lights)
Quick reaction I hit the emegency lights then bam headlights back again.
What the !@# was that...

I have check the battery connections everthing tight (Bike has 11000 on clock) but 2007 model) Bought from guy that was injured on offraod, then he stoped riding the bike. I dont know how old the battery is. I have the 800+pg manual

I just paid a big ammount for a bike and yes problems..
Can someone please help me?

Karl

Battery voltage?
Headlight relay?
Year of battery vs. year of bike. If it was sitting, where are we between injury and that battery getting the next charge? So if it has been sitting for long, not charged in awhile, is close to 3 or more years old, you checked connections, no accessories either, right?

Hi Hub

Thanks for taking time out to help me out with this.

I have spend today going through all the connection and at one stage I thought that I have found the problem.
When washing the bike water when into some connection and I have oppened all the connection and sprayed (oil base spray)
Everything look back to normal but going back later the day (at night) while driving in the cold lights acting up again.
Bat is at 12.6 Vdc and with fan running when to 11.4 Vdc. I have tested the regulater work 100% 58Vac at 4000rpm.
Bat charging between 12.6 and 14.2 while driving,it use to stay constand at 14.3?
Only thing I can think is much colder 10deg C when I was driving back tonight and the test during the day temp 24 deg C.

I think just going to buy new battery. Bike still not going full power and more than usual it back fires.
O headlight relay seems fine I have xenon lights for all.

Karl

Hub

Just one more thing Bike completely standard no mods, only thing is the lights and muzzy pipe + k&n filter
Thanks

I missed this. I see you wash the bike so maybe some type of contact cleaner that will not harm the plastic. I'd spray the switch just so this condensation vs. arc will begin to cause layer of powder that may stop the flow. Another thing is to disconnect the switches so this breaks or rubs the white electrolysis off the pins.

Hi Yes thanks for the suggestion.

I started the bike and off again with light flashing. I have a 12 dc supply for gps so decided to test the ground by touching the outer part of that cable to ground. And wow lights was not flashing anymore.
I found the problem on left side of bike in the main cable harness 10cm from where the cable are splitting up there is a ground connector little box with all the grounds running into it.I then removed the cover + connector pins (ground) clean and back with silicone spry working 100%.

Thanks for all you help with this problem.

Karl

YW, but here is what you said:
"... so decided to test the ground by touching the outer part of that cable to ground. And wow lights was not flashing anymore."

So I made a direct ground from battery to frame. If I made a ground from the wires that bundle together to somewhere on ground, my light stops flickering, I'd have a junction-box as having a poor transfer to ground.

Therefore, you have to assume that your first ground test was a bad main cable off the battery; you caused a better ground from battery to ground; so it is not the j-box wires; but the battery posts that need cleaning. Use vaseline or electric grease at those battery to cable post connections, as this corrosion begins there, rather than at the j-box: having a bad ground. If I'm reading this right, see where you started and then concluded elsewhere?

Finish off cleaning the battery posts if you have not done both sides, etc. The cables are the first look see of a bad ground, starter click-click, your blinking lights, etc. So from Loose battery cable bolts to a corrosion in green or white, the due diligence is prep-clean and keep them tight.

The Prep:
That chemical reaction to the cable end is either remove the cables or bend the ends into a cup of vinegar. As if one chemical reaction to another, that corrosion is going to dissolved off of the cable. When clean, the end looks brand new, but eaten away some. That's the prep for the cable. The prep at the battery posts is to use lots of q-tips and do not let the vinny run into that battery. So work the acid off the posts one drop or swipe at a time. Let it bubble, but catch it from dropping in between the case and the lead post in other words.

The Clean:
This is where you take a single edge razor and drag the blade across the lead post to expose a fresh layer of metal, as is to drag the blade under the cable end so those two contact points are 'clean' when they touch. Finish off with dielectric grease/vaseline if in a pinch. Coat all around the bolt/washer/nut/battery post/cable end, then tighten bolts. And this is where you do not implode the post, squeeze the lead down, crack the post, or break it off, twisting the bolt too tight, i.e., get a feel for the bark-down in other words.

what ever happened to this bikes issues.. all good now ???