Not after I saw that gas drop. I'm trying to stay away from the pumps. Figure out how Jeffo sets his up and don't tell me. I rather learn by mistake. See how fast a learning curve I can get us up and running >> for FREE! Like always. This is not rocket science.

I may reset the camera back on the advancer. Naaaaaaa. Formulating what happened when I am swapping throttle hands from grip to trigger; I had to be very subtle using my left hand to steer and feed cable; my right hand had control of the hack.
----------------------------------------------------------
You can tell the 'method' kicked in. Pg. 3-44 (Note:*).
----------------------------------------------------------

And the way Ridge describes the faster advance feed, you can fell this, 'tiny zip-car rip' say, in the electric buzz of it all. So, as the bike defaults and limps on the lower feed method, she limps off pretty much a little bump to lump.... I mean, limp.

Limp long enough, the tank flushes like a toilet; you be smell'inn fumes you wish you still had. Gas my tank is my pod for a GlobalPositionSensor (GPS) Yeah, that gas station is downhill, I think I might coast there is follow that apple finger touch is thank you very much to that tech screen.

Now that I rewired the fella, I am off again for a cooler loop is multitask once again. Watt a mess of crap on that bike! Looks like the wires blew out the harness alone with the actuator hanging on a water hose.

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/22/2009 @ 10:07 AM *

My eyes are recovered from the wind storm. I came around a ridge and the wind gust was questioning >weather< I should abort the run. After all, I was headed for the most dangerous canyon. I am beginning to like that loop. Blind drops, rocks making you slide or move ever so slight.

This abort was more the pelting the plastic will receive and the air cleaners are going to take an extra beating for these few minutes. I like the danger, so I carried on with the traffic whizzing by as I kept on pulling over trying about 6 combination lock tumbles, trying to match some tone to grip.

I don't remember how many stops to connect, reconnect, cross connect, wax on/wax off until I found I finally connected the dots!

"Puddles" and I are best buddies now. I stopped at a stop sign and laughed in my helmet, the wire job was too simple.

Let me clue you in. This will not be your favorite hack with a lot of drawbacks. See, this is an instant flashing (((FI))) and if you think losing the gear box window was bad, you do not want to go there. This too is not a way to ride the bike with subs removed. Too jerky. Too much surge. No clean drive-ability.

This was more troubleshooting a search of a few crossed wires and watt the symptom would be like or do? We have a problem down the road, I could think if there is a phantom code going the other way, it is not this sensor.

Once again, page 3-43: c11 = Limps to the J-D. You shot down the performance. Faster 'limp'advance say but a loss at the a/N for the better squirt.

5 running hacks; add the fuel cutter = 6 on the fly. I've passed that hurtle on this morning's run. Now on to the 7th limp.

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/22/2009 @ 2:18 PM *

This is the, 86/104 Syndrome.

Anyone in our little circle that is feeding your cranial bliss more than any drug car tell is RidgeRacer. He is more the bike tell. Telling me little bits of the puzzle. Show me is show you how I read this game board.

So Ridge, This is how I see the wheel of color. I see between the total 86 ignition and 104 fuels, we can hard-cut and soft-cut with the maps you have counted. And for argument sake, it is more we speak the generic. Numbers mean numbers no matter the bike. Bike being the 1Atmo is used for every .0 to 5.0v read is FI basics.

I am holding the FSM's abstract of both the 1999 Busa and 2009 Kawi manuals and neither has changed to this date. Both code to the Hard-cuts. Take for example; how I am holding the (6)locked as per GPS code. Here is where I walk the color red.

Up to this point, we should understand that there are 2 wires that head toward a junction box that are looped with other sensors. So, to follow the GPS hrd-c, notice in the programming N and 6 in red. Note the red hrd-c @ 12000.

4.84 (N|6) is rich set and that covers all gears. N and 6 is that full red so no matter the gear, she sings 12000/4.84 HARD CUT full LOCKDOWN my tow truck ready fuel/ign setting in safe mode. FAT RICH HARD on the gas tank, still safe getting home/dealer mode.

Not trying to be, "Rude OFF D'uh RED DOse Rain Dear." I am just asking the question as in wax on/wax off, I am in 6th on the hack; I am full disconnect and does not 6 and N light up red 12K you hack either GPS wire?

It is 10:42pm as I write this. I squared away a hack last night I thought I had it. I need to work on that one again. Since I finished off another test a few minutes ago I had to play it cool in the dark not knowing what is in the road, where to find the new trigger switch, what cop is hiding where?

Well, this new test run tonight went off well, but to recheck my last hack attack; I may have to leave that one alone or throw it in the bushes and forget about it. And with all these events taking place, I keep circling back to the hard-cuts is my guess? If soft-cut says stock analog, then I would assume the hrd-c and a hrd-i together make red = Code. And that "Backup = Hrd-C" is to 12K w/ignition to balance what has changed to a different cut. Would that not be a sort of, wax on/wax off no matter watt? "Limiter On/Off Values."

That is how I read this screen, RR. To me, I want to make sure that what (6) says in the FSM, steps to the defaults as in, does no harm to engine and is still safe to run in hrd-c condition. Seems like this chart may say that both GPS wires do mean: N + 6 = Hrd-C. That 5th gear tre abstract deal is not in the red and that 6|5 is ign-lo cut.

If we have tiny calcs inside the ECU, would that not default to the 1Atmo? Where else would you use that number if not to calc with a sensor down. Why, let's set the hard and screw that sensor like I need a sensor? Wax on/wax off my analog soft/digital hard. So again, no matter the ohm you think that will ground change a map using some size ohm resistance? Did not the same code set itself if the wire is out of the connector/connectors disconnected? Default to watt resistor used? I think the software shows that you do not bring me the looped ping I designed and send one consistent tone no matter if it is 270 ohms or row after row you add them up I will chuckle up, she sets like a light switch is the connector you forgot to plug in without a Tandy, it's so dandy.

You either leave me alone as designed or think you can take your little resistor, choose watt gear to pick when the software sort of blocks your move? Hard off/Hard ON! I love this stuff! Thanks, Ridge. I think I'm there. I think I know the hard and soft tones change on the fly and that is one hand on the switch and one ass touching each map tone. Not all 86/104 at once (I wish).

See how quickly my attempts at an open window of time evaporated. I broke a main wire and had to abort this run. Even though I have failed twice with the wire chase since Sunday, I keep learning little things. Take for example, the abort this morning. I've never been inside the bike's engine. I cannot tell why there is some sort of stopper system that may control the shift quality.

I had the wiring so screwed up, I had the exhaust backfiring. I look down and had some combo I did not want to start with. But the strange thing is, when I set the code, the smooth shifting when from butter smooth to hard-c hard-i, if I can use that term to describe the on/off simple map chase.

As consistent in shifting I made myself do, I would have a terrible box that was hard to shift. Once I turned the tone off, I came back to the constant shift quality I expect from this bike. So, did I catch a combo of hard-I think so. Watt else did I do to the bike but work a wire or two.

I would have to find each wire and note the advance curve, who is Ign-lo/Ign-hi as I cut into their own 'support' wire. I have to square wave these two codes away, or I might forget them if this is how the shift quality reacts. I would think If I read the display above, the practical says the limp hurts the drum roll, consequently magnetically.

I kind of let the Hacklub know I found a trick or a loophole. If Ridge comes up with the same deal or whoever is working with the development of the Busa hacking bleeds over to the 14, you are going to like the combo you can get out of the bike.

Maybe it is just coincidence, but I made mention of returning the dash on the 1st/Gen models to place the flashing (((FI))) behind the normal dash, kind of cannot work the buttons under code?

And because you cannot take the race out of my face, I found a hack that is more of a racing loophole. I mean, it is no big deal. I have my old race bud I won't even mention this trick to him. Just saying that it is another loophole I do not want to mention just yet to him. I want that dyno time just to convince myself I lost/gain/same tone under my ass I went nowhere.

ZMan, my trans never shifted better! The ragged edge tech is in the shifting evolution with the map evolution with the fuel to ign revolution solution. I wish RidgeRacer would hurry up, you select, THE RIDE!

If you can see that dual-clutch of Honda and the tail dropping down in normal bike kind of let the trans shift, not you? HOLEeeeeee Shift, I see the future! I mean, the primitive evolution of it, sorta, kinda.

Downside of it all? You cannot have it both ways! If Ridge gets in? I need to match the on/off. No way will the factory explain it to us. There is a lot of shit hidden in this bike we do not know about.

This is one amazing, impressive bike.

I am finally getting around to installing the '06/1000 ~ ECU/injectors - Respectively.
This is after I have found the '08/'06 ~ ECU/injectors - Respectively are too rich!

Over at the hack site, you can find some good reading that they compiled there. If you read a patent abstract from Suzuki, they describe why the subthrottle is used; plotted in the math of it all is the idea.

Here is the practical thought on my end as to understand the sub system. I have not read it all and each step it shows what does what. What I've read so far is a premise states; that air flow is going to slow down dragging on a port wall.

Not only does the air drag or slow down, but the fuel along with it, is licking on the port wall too. Slow what the invention was thought up is to slow down the post-air or to neutralize the fast [with a sub in the pre-speed] that is too fast on the flow.

I have this on video, where I am coming to a stop, the audio bubble comes flowing back to normal. Slow, I understand why they used the sub-system. Why, it's both a linear flow meter for gear changes [and other thingSOSays the abstract], as well as a check valve if main throttle happens to lock open. This [signal] would richen up and close the sub-throttle down = Which it does!

But, it does not tell you all that in their abstract-it is so complex. This is more an automotive design before it was applied to bikes. The year was back in the mid to late 1980's? No matter what, it is old tech, trickled down to a more refined application we have now.

The cool thing to watch about FI is how do you bring the idle down from high rpm? They cut the A/F down to 18:1 or more till it brings itself back to an idle. And when I am bone stock, in 6th gear @ 3,000 rpm, I am running at 14.7: 1 A/F.

What I can't wait for is to setup the throttle sync on the '06 sub-less. I know that bubble lag with the sub in place sure can rubber band youride. Without subs, it may be theory in the math as exquisite as it reads about the air to fuel licking. Butt...

... I'm about to lick that throttle UP a whole bunch of madness about some mathness. I have seat of the pants data that sure does not lick one bit of stall. More lick is a stall yawn, rears it's front hoofs alofthe fuck are they taking about stall?

Horse stall is I smell a patent abstractactic in the raw.

* Last updated by: Hub on 7/13/2010 @ 10:52 AM *

Where is the "hack site"? -bg

http://www.activeboard.com/forum.spark?aBID=99460&subForumID=469024&p=2

Patents: http://www.activeboard.com/forum.spark?aBID=99460&p=3&topicID=33177435

* Last updated by: Hub on 7/13/2010 @ 11:10 AM *

Again, I played dentist mirror and 5 sync screws all night long. I'm getting too old for this.

My sleeve holder worked out perfect. I could feel the flat blade drop in the slot, as I took a twist to dial-in the throttle body low speeds. I'm off by one sync. I would have to start all over and drop the sync to another level. I don't have the right tool to nail that center adjust screw, than stab it over and over for 3 more hours> No thanks.

I'm not happy, but it's close enough for what I have in the bike now. This is going to be a 2 stage run at a set of 1000 injectors out of the throttle body I have for the kit-ECU work. First I take a run at it with the '08 ECU. Then I plug in the '06 ECU and see what both fuel trims look like?

Then, if I have a lean reading between boxes, or higher water temps I can feel off the bike, I then toggle the piggy as my fuel backup to richen up if need be. I'm getting the speed up on the throttle body swaps. Before I installed the bodies, I had to look down the ports to see if anything was dropped in I didn't hear or see?

And for what it's worth, I did look to see if both 1 and 4 valves were carbon caked like I noticed on the last throttle swap. Well, I've been running a grade of gas that advertises, they can clean valves. I've seen their display at the counter. Both valves looked used, but one looks cleaned without brush marks and you get the idea. The other is packed with carbon a sponge would fall in love with.

As far as taking a look to see if that shit did do some cleaning, I can say all 8 valves were carbon free and could see a reflection off metal now on 1 and 4 intakes. You could spot the carbon peppered all around when it was there. It would be dark and flat with no reflection, then spots of reflection where no carbon had taken hold. I'm impressed. Better living through chemistry.

Now with new tires, I can punch some rpm up again, see where these injectors take me. Will report results.

You are not going to like what I am about to say. I had the sun glaring in my eyes this morning, I had to, one hand it practically all the way home. I took 'compression canyon' and it's a work route that blew any hard riding before the sun could ruin the ride. There goes the early whack at it.

I'm not about to dyno the 1000 injectors to see the raw. I'm going to need more ride time to dial-in the pig. I'm basically reading the same 14.7:1 on cruise. The throttle is ultra crisp. Here is the caveat...

SUBS RULE!

'Subliciously' delicious are the smooth ass glass ears I'm telling you! No way will I remove the subs on the next bike and or said door lag gear is any gear I'm talking. Any think you got some thing for a fly... I'm going to pull my zipper down, bring some flies around is about the only... Don't get me started.

I am in the ULTRA-ULTRA-SMOOTH = Sub'd. I am Ultra-Crisp-Stinging-Buzz-Smooth = UN-SUB'd.

The way I have the stock throttle body setup, I wanna cry I'm running subless now. Yes, I have a bump in the abstract-wink-wink, but the 'Lagilicious' when the subs have something to say, I say what a heck of a difference between the two. Did I ruin, destroy, sabotage, kick myself in the ass I lost the smoothest ride I ever felt out of that bike? I sure die did I cry. Cry myself to bed tonight.

'06 ECU is next...

This was a short trip to the dentist, where a freeway run was on the hard WOT going there. I then swapped out ninjamaster's '06 ECU, took the surface streets home.

1000/'08 ~ Injectors/ECU = Same fuel trim.
1000/'06 ~ Injectors/ECU = Lean fuel trim.

Here is where I now throw the N at a subless. With the heatwave happening, I'm watching water bars and could smell a stink when I slowed for a turn, mostly. Call it the wind behind me being sucked is now in front of me and I associate the N with the old 1000 sitters smelling like stale gas?

With the 3 cats being fed the N, I looked at the water table wondering what was going on? Shut the N down, and there goes the water bar down a step. Stink I think the odor went away too. Now, is ninja's ECU on the blink? I stink it is and then maybe not.

Once again, I have some sort of stumble with the '06 ECU/1000 injectors, where the '08 is somewhat cleaner on take off. But then again, here I am with the '08 stock throttle body, I swap the '06 and have that low end stumble still. I do not have enough time on ninja's box yet, short of feeling that same stumble on takeoff no matter the swap. What I'm waiting for is for the cutout to happen at speed.

As I follow what steps are taken for each change, I would have to assume that the '06 injectors are richer than the '08's. However, with the 1000 injectors showing a lean 15-16:1 ratio, the fatter '06 injectors would sent the A/F meter toward the fatter side of 15:1 A/Fratio. Does that make sense with all the swapping boxes and injectors so far?

Therefore, stock for stock, a 1000 injector is not suitable for the 14. Again, here is where we might be pushing too much wire heat at the injector coils, we duty cycle the changes that exceed what range we need; 13.5:1 on down to 12.5:1 for best performance. Economy wise, the bike being stock '06 mapped, we throw N at it, she wants to cook hot. So, are we stressing the 1000 injectors? Well, same ideal conditions, I would have to send a temp beam at the injector bodies to see if I over cycled the coils to cause too much heat, shorten the life of the guy.

Will I throw fuel at it, see if she cools down if I throw the N at it? That N is not to be used with flies in. Still, it is a limp lagger running way over-rich. That built-in accel pump really dumps fuel in and there is your safe, low hp trap speed. That, cough-cough, limp is more of something to stay out of, unless you like the low end grunt or rich torque at WOT. This bangs the best ratio, right there at about 11.5:1.

It sure looks like you are more in the accel on the sustain, rather than a plunge and you are gone. So, with that extra accel on the safe mode is give you a good long load in the 1/8th or 1/4 second, you can see the [richer accel] A/F meter hang longer under N.

The '06 will now be fed with a pig setting, see if we can bring 16:1 down to 14:1, then see if she carries the front wheel. Smooths my ride out as if it were stock. See if the ECU cuts out with a spare in jacket pocket to get me home.

Next Raw Ride, raw hide. Gettem up gettem out.. Soon.

It was a definitely an eye opener to see how much fuel cut was made with the '06 ECU. You are sitting there in the 16/17:1 ratios, lagging along. Smooth is the climb up the linear. That was the start of it all with the first generation.

Swap ECU's and now the power is back to running 1Atmo ratios. The '08 has that slight robust smooth feel also. But remember, I am running 1000cc injectors and feeding off both ECU's. Neither box is matched to their injectors. So, if I installed the '06 injectors to see what the read was then?; not what I am reading now in the mid/high teens.

The '06 injector for the '08 ECU is way off scale overrich. The 1000cc injectors are off scale for the '06 ECU. The '08 ECU and 1000cc injectors would need a back to back swap, but it seems if I were to choose injectors, I'd match the '08 with the '08, and one big definite match for an '06 with an '06.

Once again, 3 injector bodies that have different colors, same body style outside, but are built different inside. Then, more eye opening on lift, was to see the '08 box leans on lift; '06 box richens on lift. These are with flies out, no codes, I do believe. The '06's air brake did work well, if I remember that first gen. It is like shutting down the sub, richen the load to bring the idle down. On the '08, my guess is the sub opening sooner with the better fuel trim to match, and the opposite happens. The '08 lift is not as strong a pull down from the fist gen bikes.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________

I'd like to thank, ninjamaster, for his extended hand to hand over his '06 ECU for my studies. Ninjamaster found out by process of elimination where a miss could be? Manual says: If it not a wire, not a sensor, it's the ECU. Pretty basic really. And ninjamaster did resolve his driveability problem by replacing the ECU.

Here is what I think happens to a failed ECU:

1. Bike starts and runs = Has a miss or map grid dropout at said rpm.
2. Bike starts and runs = Stalls at that rpm, but conditions have to be right not to fire in sequence on the next cylinder, then the next in sequence [does not fire], you stall or the engine cuts out, but restarts fine.
3. Bike starts and runs = Has a nagging miss that continues if you fall within the same rpm range no matter the gear.
4. Bike Starts and runs = And will have the miss no matter cold or hot.

However, I've just scratched the surface of one way an ECU can cause a driveability issue as ninja's box has explained to me how or what might be happening inside this dead ECU. Drove me up the wall crazy just having it stuck in the bike to test. If I have this map concept watching the pings move on the grid, it is more a 3 way move you keep reverting back to when it goes around like a wheel, it will use that gate once again and the gate does not open, or grounds more like finding a quicker path before it finally reaches the spark plug?

Either way, it was interesting to know what a failed ECU felt like. Like taking a ride on a Disney Tour. You find out someone is inside Mickey and it ain't Mickey. That kind of a ride. WATT?

Are you making the rounds me hitting more closed courses like websites I start tearing up track? I can't help it but to keep butting heads with everyone. Better check that book out because it only steps and speaks somewhat; follow these steps and there she is! UP and running and it runs in the absolute way it works; So squirts the WATT.

Ohm's the resistance and shepootles or sheplopslow. She is set in that preset to spank and I guess I can only guess the trim goes nowhere but limp. Seems the bike just flat out comes on better if it is not limped out of that resistance. So you are just fooling yourself as I more speak to myself.

Sounds more like a fuel limp, but I can check that with camera.

I gotta say, self?; WATT and why are you exposing this? You know what? I cannot find the answer I am looking for in that black box and I think I am going a little, shesplodeer. I might as well hit a dear me, I've stumbled on another sheohmmer. I have to speak in riddles and fiddle you along I can't reveal the shiftinut'inn for ya.

I've found a display loophole. Dis too, remainsecret. "Head back to camp. I've got nothing for ya."

* Last updated by: Hub on 1/10/2011 @ 10:53 PM *

Old video; training myself is all I can do to answer my own questions. The raw says we've pretty much come full circle. I've watched the ignition, I've watched the AFR, I've felt the assfactor. I'm still confused. Sort of. Those primitive ignitions are forever present. Thing is, she is more a refined tune in the absolute step; she is always being refined.

WATT I keep finding are the steps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1TmeBd9338&feature=related

All useless info to me. And now It's back to my tunerehashing more findings he sneaks up on some pit crew. More like he does not need me. However, BuTThatuneyes bee hind you smelling that mapissing out the back... You're not going to believe this but, I can smell a map (makers) mapiss a mile away.

How bad can youschmella map scheduling? Buy the time it comes around the corner, I can whiffa JoffoBroffoJiffy Mapiss crapping in year corn flakes pop inn the atmosphere. When was the last time you had popcorn w/bacon & eggs. When wash the lastime you ate breakfast in a movie theater you be waiting around the block with your milk splashing out the bowl.

A majority of the bike mechanics and "do-it-yourselfers" dont understand what the VOES is or does.
Vacuum Operated Electronic Switch and all it does is ground or unground a wire that will advance timing when grounded and retard timing when ungrounded.

Why does it matter? when an engine is under load ( pulling away from a stop or pulling a steep hill or any quick burst of throttle) the timing needs to retard a bit so there is less strain on the engine while it tries to reach a cruising speed and at that time the engine is not straining and the voes grounds the wire and advances the timing for more power at cruise.

Will it work without it? oh yea it will but gas mileage and response is reduced.

If you cant fix the one you have get another one from the dealer, this part no# should work

P/N 26566-91

Hope this makes sense....:cheersmate:

Key for the ones that want the footnotes:

I am so basic, I am one limp away you touch the [wire] loop. What you notice about limp is the loss of tank-happy. I'd run those limps [you just have to have], and [eye-sea] the mileagethe-suckage-windage knocked out of it. I can only go back to my notes on that MB. I was thinking to myself at that moment [looking at that taillight maker] and just say I was close behind but that fucking lagagging, I was not happy knowing 'basesignal' was a toggle away but how could I take my handsoft the bars and giggle back to the 18-Lift/OFF. No, I had to be in the tank sucking 16.5/ON the limp rich.

And base is bone stock = No codes. We are looking at your generic 14 no matter how trick the added sensors are. Call it the ignition loop. Not some gear loop, speedo loop. They have their own shutdown modes being the on/off you go.

On/off you go is a loop constant seems to me. No matter the ping, it pings on off 1010101010 She that shewheatune?

Base Signal = ON:

Think of it like this; We assemble the crank sensor. All we do is set the timing without the vacuum switch. Vac needs the base timing mark.

Think; How do I pre-dial in the limp? Or say, how does the factory preset the ignition system?
Think; I have to remove my vac-variable [like I have to un-switch my PAIR to tune a base AFR] think.
Think; By removing the one signal loop, I now time in my timing mark(s) as per window placement dot.
Think; I am speaking VOESo it looks like I grab the one loop and now wipe the drive and I am on a clean screen as if I bought a new computer nothing saved, etc.

Think; Light up the bike, move the timing hall effect is more what you are doing is follow that wave till you see the timing mark either in the harley hole or a static mark on any computer bike = Generic Preset my spark box for vacuum advance can now be installed.

WATThe thinking you have is justoo Fucking Funny! "I'ma gonna follow that man right out of my hair brain idea."

PAzYearazzUP = Pay UP = I need to pay someone for I have way too many chuckles on my end of this wire I keypunchlines after linesoso funny that money 'CLICK-EngineerinGetsHIM' Again!

And that CLUTCH SETUP... Blew the pros in the WEEDS! One CLICougHenPecking Shop Sticks Like the Spoons Clean.

How come I saw it from here? Where is the Cash Window?

Test Is on! Not promising right out the gate. Somewhat up in the air right now. I've got a little problem to solve. I can tell you this:

1. Damn bar and plates not sticking around sure bring a, 'no-can't-go-for-that' kind of haul a few letters and not too many oats.

2. Might be the hard set. Don't ask. Still, I sort of remember this being a bit more twitchy because it's gutted, lighter. And the blades and rods seem to slow that much more down. Kind of hesitant to keep the leaner ones in at this time.

3. I've go nothing going on. Feels slow. The jump is gone. The bit is no where near stock. This is too soon to tell because of the hard set and is that the twitch throttle or being bar/plate-less. I'll find out in a few.

4. I'm about ready for ninja's ECU swap; finally! It's been sitting there and now I actually can put some time in this puppy. Here is what I've gathered using my sponsor's ZX-10 parts, my old '06 T-body and '08 mule.
a. ZX-10: In the bike at the moment. I notice the needle lean out to about a 14.5 AFR.
b. ZX-14 '06: The AFR is well off the charts for tuning. Not with an '08 ECU at least. Spits deep 10 AFR and that just sucks gas the worst. Again, later model ECU. With the '06 about to be swapped once the sync is cleaner, the possible air leak that I may have bumped the PAIR tube off? I had an appointment and rushed the job.
c. ZX-14 '08: Anyway, here is the better injector of course. With the 10 being lean, the '06 being too rich, the blades out of the way, I am about to revert right back to stock (as usual).

Well, I'm perplexed. I got lost a little so I could ride a bit. That fuel trim was making up for the lean condition. It would swing rich and then settle back. I could see the accel was on a whole bunch. Bike picked up some. I like it! I'm still chasing that code later on tonight.

When I returned the things to my sponsor, I asked if he wanted his parts back. He said no. I then asked if he wanted to unload anything else he has spares of? He says he has a PC5 that just needs to use on some bike and I can come get it.

I'm thinking of seeing if I can get the bike out of there since he is swamped with work. The more I hung around, the more calls he took to take on more work. It will be awhile for now. I finally get to toggle either a pot or a pc and compare assnotes.

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/11/2011 @ 8:02 PM *

I swapped out the other injectors. Still coded. Ran a line down from the harness down to the 6 wire and she reads fine. That 6 is one hard six, not like a ohm resistor hit. This thing is hard 6 with a lot more codes flashing besides FI and 6 blinking on and off.

Romes,

They are talking about a 3,000 dollar piggy you need for this aprilia. Then with the same breath, the guy said, now don't take offense because you ducked when he said and I'm paraphrasing here, 'most guys can't figure out a pc let alone an aprilia dealer knowing how to use one of these tools and you need passwords from the factory to get into this computer.

I'm going to take nijamaster's ECU, get it to stumble at that magic rpm and watch the AFR bounce. There is my special tool. Apparently, you can buy these tools all over the place for 2,700 to 3 grand. How deep do I want to go with this? I'm kind of surprised right now I had this idea and it is now on the left switch 1-2 buckle my shoe. 3-4, open my wallet. 5-6 pick up soda cans and beg I have a computer jones.

Well, assfactor goes, I removed every limp possible where I am as stock as a baby's rear end. After one test after the other, the bike settled into the smoothest setting imaginable. In other words, Kawi has it mastered so well, or should I say, don't forget Mikuni. I've run over a lot of white line, butt I felt this greasy strip let the back tire loose just as I accelerated off that line. Bone stocksetting no shit.

I rode with a code home and it sure has that bottom grunt, but to have the flies in, the smoothrottle opening, however; not whack it open; but more linear. Yeah, that's watt I'm talking about. Anyone wanna buy cody's diet packets? I'm selling my resistors on ebay. Just giving you a heads up if anyone wants a deal on watt I have left. I tried to beat the yap an knees at their own game. I failed miserably. Btw, no reserve.

I am trying so hard to understand all this, but I am still so completely lost, I am not sure if I will ever even be able to find my self. Let alone find a way to understand this foreign language I swear your speaking.

Don't worry about it. The signal-to-noise ratio is so low nobody can honestly say they got anything worthwhile from reading this.