I was wondering if anybody had a how to for removing the oil pan and pickup. Thanks

I read your post Sbilisko.I've never done the pan drop deal.Probably pretty straightforward though.Drain oil,remove filter.Remove midpipe,remove header(?).Lower pan and be careful about the PICKUP tube thing...guess it can drop down or something.I'd watch carefully as you lower the pan,just to make sure that the tube is a certain way and make a mental note of it.Make sure you get it oriented in there correctly once you go to close er up.New gasket,tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern with a final torque down in a circular pattern around the pan.Replace the pipes.Install new oil filter.Fill with oil.Start...check for leaks(See below caution*****).Guess that would be about it.Personally,I'd have mine on a rear stand...but you probably could get it done just sitting on the sidestand?Be careful about overtightening those pan bolts!!!!!Go easy with em.

IF you think you can get your hands in there behind the radiator to pull the header pipes loose,then you PROBABLY don't need to take the Radiator loose and move it.I think some guys here...and maybe in the manual also suggest removing that radiator.I wouldn't if I absolutely didn't have to.Gotta remove those midfairings as well to get to the header bolts and have room to get in there and pull the header loose.I think if you're careful about pulling that piping at the header,the radiator will probably be fine.I've had my hands in there a few times.There IS enough room to pull that loose and slide it out and down.1/4 inch drive extension(wrench)....don't know what size socket,but maybe an 8 mm...I think Rook had a write up here about tightening the header bolts...very good.Might do a 'search' for 'header bolt tightening'...probably pop right up for ya.

*******Once you get that oil back in there..start your bike(natch).If the oil light DOES NOT GO OUT ...STOP IMMEDIATELY.Try again just to be sure.If it IS having an oiling problem....it most likely WILL NOT START...only crank for ya with the oil light lit up.Hope this helps.Ride safe!

****Unless you are very careful...do not use a paint scraper to remove any gasket material from those mating surfaces.If you know you can do it without gouging the surfaces,go for it.Otherwise,clean em off with something softer...maybe kerosine and a rag,something like that?They need to be clean for a nice seal.Don't want to have to do this thing twice!

Sounds like you might be installing an aftermarket pickup tube....Wheelie Monster are you?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/4/2011 @ 12:35 AM *

I did an oil pan drop last winter. Its a piece of cake if you pay attention. Assuming you drained the oil...

1) Un-torque the pan bolts the right way. First one from one side, then one from the opposite side, then rotate 90, and repeat. Work your way around. Just un-torque, don't unbolt all the way.

2) Unbolt all bolts now, and the pan "should" stay up on gasket suction. I put some fingers on the bottom of the pan to be safe.

3) Lower the pan. You might have to tap an edge, but don't stick a screwdriver blade in to get it lose.

4) While you lower the pan, when it has just started to come down, peer inside from the front and note the position of the drain tube. Also, check the bottom of the block after you remove the pan and make sure the rubber seal is in place. A shop manual (download from General section) will help a lot to understand the two components you have to make sure get back right. My drain tube stayed affixed to the bottom of the block. I didn't mess with it, other than to make sure it fit in the notch in the pan when I put the pan back.

5. To put the pan back on, just lay the new gasket on the pan after putting a drop or two of oil on the pan side of the gasket so help hold it in place. Line up the drain tube, and don't push hard, if you get the tube in the slot in the pan, the pan will fit flush against the block. If it won't, you don't have the tube in the slot.

Once its on, make sure your gasket is square, and then put the bolts on in same order you took them off. First put them all in finger tight. Then use a socket with a screwdriver handle (NOT A TORQUE WRENCH or RATCHET) and tighten the bolts in alternating order like #1. Just use two or three fingers on the handle.

Now go back around in order again, and using the same socket driver, tighten each bolt using your whole hand. That is all the tighter they need to be. Trust me, mine have not come loose at all. If you strip a bolt hole in the block, its going to have to go on a lift and get drilled and helicoiled, and you will pay a fortune to get it done.

Ya...I was basically 'guessing' about the removal.No exhaust removal?that's good then.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/4/2011 @ 2:07 PM *

Oh, and the gasket will come off just by gently pulling it off. NEVER put a scraper or screwdriver blade on either mating surface, block or gasket. If you gouge the soft aluminum, it will leak like a sieve.

If for some reason someone had it apart previously and put gasket compount (gasp) or otherwise stuck the gasket to the pan or block, you will just have to heat it and work at it with a credit card you don't like, or something like that. A plastic car window scraper, cut in half, can be used if you are REALLY careful. Believe it or not, that plastic can gouge the aluminium if you angle it too steeply.

grn14 wrote:

Ya...I was basically 'guessing' about the removal.No exhaust removal?that's good then.

Oh, well of course the exhaust has to come off. Its in the way. I assumed that was a given.

In fact, when I had to replace my pan, it really torqued me that I had to pull the exhaust off, because I had just put it on like 3 weeks previously. Grrrrrr.

ZX1400 2007

Just had an occasion to remove the oil pan and wanted to share some notes.

Found the pan tough to remove because the cross over pipe is mounted into the front left corner area of the oil pan and into the center section of the engine. Each end has an o-ring that prevents if from slipping out and when you pull down the crossover pipe starts to go into misalignment and jam everything, stopping removal.

Trick I found was to use a long screwdriver from the left side and gently pry down on the cross over pipe on the end that goes up into the engine. Popped right out. And you can do the same on the oil pan end at the front left corner by prying up. It's the o-rings and the tilting of the cross over pipe from horizontal that jams everything.

On installation I had a hard time to get the oil pan end of the cross over pipe back into the oil pan hole. Problem was I did not keep the cross over pipe parallel to the cover as I pushed it inward, very important. Also keep both o-rings well lubed.

Found it was easier to re-install the oil pan with the crossover pipe in the oil pan, instead of installing the pipe into the engine first and then trying to install the oil pan.

How this helps others.

Have a great summer.

* Last updated by: BrianB on 7/23/2014 @ 1:42 PM *