Are you sure? My top case lights are AdMore, and I got them at Twisted Throttle. I didn't see kits for the V35s.

Maybe they are new. Thanks, I'll see if I can find them. I'm all for what makes me more visible and what lets me see better at night.

By the way, I have 35W 6,000 color DDM Tuning highs and lows. No relay, stock harness connection. Instant on, every time.

Last night I was coming down out of the mountains after dark (Legion Riders meeting in Cascade, MD) and low beams were basically more than enough to maintain a fast, safe, pace.

When I clicked on the highs it lit the road, road signs, trees, lines on the road, shoulders, and every other darn thing up so far ahead it was beyond my MSF scanning range. On one drop leading into a rise, it lit stuff up at the top of the rise 1/2 mile ahead to the point I could read the signs.

I don't need more light than that. More would be overkill, and nothing more.

Sorry Privy, but your top case looks exactly like my Astra Coocase right down to the silver stripe going around the front half. And I also have the same exact side cases as you, buddy. Givi's.
The topline Coocases like mine come with lighting that comes on with the parking lights and brightens with the brakes but they're just two leds (maybe 4, I might be wrong, don't spend much time staring at the back of my bike while it's moving) which could be brighter. No kit needed.
If I could put lites in the Givi's I would feel a ton better about those idiots behind me so I better check out them kits too.

As far as the HIDs. Like I said before, I have a ultra-slim Xentec kit off Fleebay, 5K 35Watt, for my low beams only. I also bought a Raptor 55Watt 6K kit from DDM for my wife's Dodge Avenger.
I haven't had an issue with my Xentecs on the bike except they aren't as bright as I expected. I think I will get the 55Watt kit for the highs eventually.
As for the DDM kit I have on the wife's car, I had to put a relay in to try to keep the lights from flickering. And the wife said there are still times when the lights go out for no reason. This was the brick style ballast that DDM states are bulletproof. Granted, I may be experiencing an issue specific to the Avenger since a lot of vehicles have complex lighting systems, but I am really at a loss as to why I'm getting a flicker with a 40amp relay and heavy wire supplying the ballasts. As far as the performance of the 55Watt kit, they are bright as all hell!! me likey!
So at this point I would not stand behind the DDM raptor kit. Their ultra-slim kit may work better. And I only add this because someone at one time wanted me to report my results.

Again, the 35W 5K, was not too much light for my tastes and I could have used more. So far after two weeks of commuting to work everyday, I haven't had one person flash lights at me, which is a good thing.

I ordered mine from AdMore web site,put them in last mounth.

Admore lighting

Damn! for 150$ + I'll make my own spank me very much!!!! lol

If you go to AdMore web site click on deals on the left you can get the kit for $87.00 + shipping.

Has anybody had the problem with the bike shutting off when hitting the Hi beams? It's not the battery it's brand new.

Blue07 I bet you know...

Wow, unplug one of the high beam ballast and repeat the test. Then do the other. First time I've heard of this. Ballast has a dead short ?

YOU KNOW...you asked the right person!Mine did EXACTLY that when switching from low to a high.It was the bulb....the base had cracked(the glass part).Check yer bulbs there...see if any are damaged at the base.When they were "on"...everything seemed fine...until I switched hi and low beams.Bike just stopped running...I think the power was still going though.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/12/2011 @ 9:04 AM *

Do I need to get new bulbs?

Well Black...I can't really say if you do without checking for broken bulbs.All I know is....mine worked okay....then suddenly,one time I was turning the corner to come home,and I switched to I THINK low beams,then back to highs...and my bike shut down.It just quit running.The power however was still on.It did this a couple of times.THEN,I finally checked to see if possibly one of the lamps had loosened from the metal stock socket...that's when I found the bulb just kinda "hanging on" in there.It completely broke off and fell inside the housing when I tried to remove the socket from the housing.After replacing the bulb...it has worked fine.So...IDK if that's your deal...but that's what mine did.
Broken glass bulb.If I'm not mistaken,you could hear a small buzz when you switched from lows to highs just before it really stopped working.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/13/2011 @ 8:51 AM *

Blue07

That's what I'm going to do.

Romans,

I'm going to try that as well too...

Thank you both

Black 1 please post your findings.

Will Do I'm off on Monday going to mess with it then.

Just curious, Black1, were you using your' left high beam switch or your right High beam switch?

lol sorry had to do it.