WOW Mr Chrly that is looking good.

Thanks guys.. Just havin' fun :)

Test and Tune today at Sacramento.....Great weather altho a lil warm for racing ...but still. After making a couple of very small changes I matched my top speed of 155+ and then proceeded to better my ET from 9.250 to 9.17, then last run of the day hit 9.12...
I know we are talking hundredths and that just does not seem like a big deal, but for my personal goal , they all count :) I think this is my 9.12 and you can see I am still getting a little lift at teh gear change, which means I cannot use full throttle at that point so obviously there is more time to be saved at gear changes...I all ready have a plan :)

9.12 pass

Not sure if I mentioned this but I have gone back to the stock swing arm and I'm going to run that until I get an 8 on this thing.

* Last updated by: chrly on 2/12/2022 @ 8:34 PM *

Pretty interesting to see the volts drop to 13v then come back to 14v. There has to be some heat window of the engine. I mean, 160F is hot to go, but 203F might be a HP robber. Heat makes HP, but at what degree? Might match the the times and see what temp you had the best time?

Hub.. that voltage drop has me concerned also.. It has been wierd . I noticed it last week at the track and then several times yesterday.. I have an AntiGravituy battery in the bike now but thinking about going back to Yuasi (sp) I am just not sold on the Litium-ion.
I also need to replace my camera as it will not last the four hrs that racing usually does and the picture it presents really helps me understand better what is happening.
I am looking at a dash cam, motion activated that is wired to bijke so that I can completely forget about turning on and off to save battery.

Another point of yesterdays testing was that I purposely ran the bike as little as possible , moving in the staging lans , etc. But NO CAMERA yesterday .. I seem to be improving mentally at the track but got serious kinda late in life LOL

I wouldn't worry about that type battery. The weight alone is a plus. Na, I think that's sort of built into the VR is my guess. That's a lot of AC at that rpm, and probably [the VR] overrides the voltage spike. It recovers quick, but the dash read has a lag time, so it all happens pretty quick.

No doubt that bike is a handful, where I hit 7k, I can feel the front end go light and I shift out of it. But then again, I run out of room around here playing that game.

Hub. it is my understanding that after a dormant period ( weeks ? ) the litium likes a load put on them for several second before they are ready to fire off a bike .. It seems as tho the bike struggles as with a low amp battery , and this can happen at anytime over the race day .. A few days before a race I usually ride for 30 minutes to try to keep things fresh . Never had problems with the Yuasa. When it was done , I got two warnings and then it was finished but always started "crisply"
As far as the weight helping, mathematically 1 pound equals 5 hundredths of a second difference Totak bike and rider 650 lbs/202 hp Yuasa MATHEMATICALLY equals 8.60 1/4 mile ET
640 lbs/202 hp Litium Mathematically equals 8.55 1/4 mile ET

While substantial, the fact that the bike may not start in the staging lanes is BIG .. and that plays on my mind . I have actually had to shut down after teh burnout for two or three minutes when something was spotted on the track . It did the lazy start thing when I went to fire back up.. really screws up my concentration :)

Volts mean PUSH. So if the bike cranks but lags starting, it says no push stored. Whereas, you do a load test via the volt meter at the battery, start the bike, watch the volts drop down to say 9v. Not a good sign. Say a strong or new battery takes the load and drops down to 11.1v, recovers back to static volts almost immediately. And static means, key on, what does it read now before starting?

Then there is a routine prepping of a stock type battery with BS [battery acid supplied], and that says:
1. Pour the acid pack into the battery. Let sit for over an hour to fully soak into the plates.
2. Charge the battery with at least a 1.2amp rated charger for literally 12 hours.
3. I use a car jumper cables, run a high beam and a stop light filament to draw down the battery to 1 or 2v.
4. Recharge for said hours again, then repeat 2 more drainage/recharge rounds; then the 3rd charge, it's now ready for service.

I did this to the 14's batteries and could gain about 4 more years out of it. So I totaled the '013, pulled the battery and used that battery up to 2021, and finally took a shit. To me it's worth the effort like Yuasa does with their competitors batteries and see how they stand up. That prep was told to me by a tech at Yuasa.

I suggest you prep your own batteries, and when they sit, they more or less have reserves to last without the trickle done to it. So if say it sits a week or more, no biggie. You might see it pin to 14.7-14.6v on the dash if it sits some, then drops to 14.5v or there about and stays there all day long. 8.60 all day long.

As usual, great info hub ,thanks just may make that happen.ty.