Left Side Subframe Removal
The Left side Subframe mainly functions as attachment point for the fasteners that hold the wiring up on the left side of the bike. There is no similar piece of frame on the right side of the motorcycle. The Left Side Sub Frame may be removed to create more room to reach the top engine from the left side of the motorcycle. The LH side subframe may be removed permanently by adding a few small homemade brackets which I will cover in an upcoming tutorial.

Do first
Remove the Left Foreman, Left Lower and Left Side Fairing <<CLICK

Tools
10mm closed end wrench
10 mm socket
small screwdriver
8mm socket
12mm socket
torque wrench
non permanent locking agent
silicone lube

Removal

To deinstall the section of subframe from the left side of the motorcycle, remove the fasteners and bolts marked in the picture below. Refer to steps 1 through 9.

1. Remove the main wiring harness bracket [A] from the sub frame using a 10mm socket (note I have my Power Commander grounded here--the black wire is not OEM).

2. Unbend fan wire retainer tab and use a 10mm closed end wrench to remove it along with the bolt [B] and the bracket from the sub frame section.

3. Remove the main wiring harness fastener [C].

Press the release by inserting a small screwdriver, DO NOT CUT THIS Reusable OEM part. You may instead use an 8 mm socket to remove the fairing hanger that the zip tie is anchored through.

4. Pinch the fan wire retainer ring [D] as shown to misalign the beak so that it may be removed from the hole in the subframe section.

5. Locate the band [E] which retains the stick coil harness wire. Do not cut or discard this zip tie. It is a reusable OEM part.

Press the tab on the ziptie to unlock it and slide the tongue out of the back. Remove it from the subframe section.

6. Push the rubber clutch line damper [F] backward over the clutch line tube and out of mounts welded to the subframe section.

7. Use a 12mm socket to remove sub frame bolts [S1], [S2] and the washer with each.

Remove the section of subframe from the left side of the motorcycle.

Installation

8. Install Subframe Member and the two subframe bolts [S1 and S2], each with
washer, to the left side using a 12mm socket (step 9). The bolts require non permanent locking agent. Use a torque wrench to properly tighten the LH subframe bolts.

Torque - LH Side Subframe Bolts: 17 ft-lb

Be sure to route the Clutch Line to the inside of the Subframe Member. The drainage tube from the back left corner of the airbox and the radiator overflow tube to the coolant reservoir also rout under the Subframe member.

9. Apply silicone lube to the rubber vibration damper on the Clutch Line [F]. Push the
rubber damper over the Clutch Line and into the mounts welded to the top of the Subframe Member (step 6).

10. Refasten the zip tie [C] around the large grey bundle of wires or use an 8mm
socket to tighten the bolt which fastens the wire retainer/fairing hanger to the exterior front air box (step 3).

11. Install the rear bracket [A] to the Subframe using a 10mm box wrench (step 1).
Basic torque spec for this 6mm thread bolt a is 52-69 in lbs.

12. Use a 10mm closed end wrench to install the wire retainer tab, the bolt [B] and the
wire connector lead bracket to the Subframe Member (step 2). 6mm thread bolt. Basic torque spec for a is 52-69 in lbs. Bend wire retainer tab around the wire to the fan.

13. Place ring retainer [D] around the connector leads. Skew beak points and insert them into the hole in the Subframe Member (step 4).

14. Fasten stick coil sub harness connector wire to subframe member using the OEM ziptie [E] (step 5)

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/7/2018 @ 3:54 PM *

I'm about to remove this part permanently to save some weight. It along with the all the attached hardware weighs over 9 oz.

The purpose(s) of the left side subframe were discussed on this thread.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=49D875EC-078D-80C9-7E2BEE5DDE896EF5

Also this one on bikeland.

http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=27&TID=77321&set_time=

The two primary functions of the left subframe seem to be A) the only attachment point for the left side fairing and B) to support the left side of the main frame which is made weaker by the air filter slot in the air box/frame. I can come up with a way to attach the left fairing to the frame but there will be no way to reinforce the main frame. I doubt it will be potential problem unless the suspension bottoms out hard. Good reason to keep the subframe on though...then again, there are good reasons to leave on all the parts I have removed but no problems with my bike yet.

So Rook, how much weight have you removed in total?

I had hoped to figure that all out this winter but there is so much wrenching and fabbing to do, I don't know if I'll get to it. I really should. I'm estimating close to a hundred pounds with switching to lightweight after market stuff and removing unnecessary parts.

Actually, just did a rough estimate (went through everything and rounded to the nearest half pound). About 70 lbs so far. That's pretty close to on the money.

I think I'll get a total loss of 80 but 100 would be pretty tough. I'll try though!

I might come real close if I take out the headlights.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/13/2014 @ 10:02 PM *

Wow! Hell of an improvement. A few grams here and there really do add up. How much of an improvement in handling?

That's really hard to say until I get to ride a stock 14 to compare. All the weight loss mods happened over a long period of time and there were a few mods that added a small amount of weight. To tell you the truth I think the handling was improved about 20% at most but that's worth it. The wheels and exhaust made the biggest difference. The busa has very little weight taken off and I can't corner any faster with it. The overall feel of the 14 is a lot more different after shedding the weight.

Just wondering how hard I should work at losing the gut.

I can't feel a big difference in acceleration when carrying a small passenger.

Hey, is that a fat joke?

LOL no, just the best comparo I can think of. I'm about 200 and carrying my friend's 100 lb wife, the 14 didn't seem like it was all that much slower in acceleration. In a race, it would make a big dif, I'm sure but for everyday riding and noncompetative sport riding, a hundred extra pounds is like one tooth down on the rear sprocket. Noticeable but not like day and night.

I love bringing older threads back to the top..
So what did you use to hold on the fairing after taking off the subframe brace?

Nothing yet. It feels plenty stable as is. I'm not too concerned about it so I might not ever make the adapter to fasten the back of the fairing to the frame as the RH side is fastened. No problems so far but I have not gone much over a hundred MPH or done any wheelies. It was just last fall before I quit riding that I permanently removed the side subframe. Tail subframes are gone too. No problem but DON’T carry a passenger or yank around by the tail.

What do you think about stabilizing the bike by the tail when putting it on a rear stand without the passenger bars? Wife wants one ride, then I'll probably take off those bars. Nice to be able to do a couple of small free mods.

Well, I have a forward handle rear stand and a swing arm pivot stand so I don't need to stabilize the tail to lift the rear. I don't think I would try it without a wheel chock for back up and double for subframe removed. It flexes down/up pretty easily. I have not compared the amount of flex to a bike with the subframe in. I would not carry 30 lb back there now. 70, I'd say it would definitely bend instead of just flex. I think you could do it if you are good at lifting with a rear handle stand. If you are needing to put 30 lbs of pressure this or that way, you probably would drop the bike. That's why I never dared to use a rear handle lift--but I would prefer one of those to a forward handle lift.

side subframe still out. have done a couple small wheelies. No trouble at all.

updating done

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/7/2018 @ 3:56 PM *