I have a 2013 zx14. I get the code 62 most times I take it out. I will get the code during regular city driving even after it clears. If I stop for a few minutes and shut bike off the code will go away and not come back for the ride. Most every time I take it out the code will come on and the bike will not go above 4500 rpm. Both lights come on the dash and the dash flashes. I was told replace TB but also told to check wires. Where is the best place to start without having to take of Throttle body's? Any help would be great. Thanks.

Welcome
When you were told to change the TB or check wires, it's more to think, I have a dropout and comes back. So a TB can't dropout and comeback on again. It either takes a dump or it's a loose wire going in and out via vibration.

Best place to start is to go to the left side of the bike, there is going to be a big fat brown connector down by the cross brace. That takes care of the throttle body/sub/injectors. It sure sounds like a loose wire. Key on, wiggle first at the brown connector. See if the dash does something funny and there it is in your hand.

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Thank you for the follow up. I had my first warm day in Chicago Sat and took her for a ride. Code kept coming back at normal traffic riding. If I was on her and at speed it never coded. Taking into consideration of what you said that it cant dropout and comeback again and still be faulty. Came home, took off all the fairings. I cleaned and wiggled the connectors on the bike. Checked all I could. Then I disconnected the Power Commander and no more codes. Could this be a faulty PC? Drives fine now and no issues with the code. So, now I at least know it is not the TB. Do I really need the PC? The ECU is flashed before I bought the bike. Would I need it flashed again? I know, so many questions but I know this is the place to get the answer. Thank you.

If I was on her and at speed it never coded.

C62 is subthrottle. TPS out of sync? So I'm thinking sync the TPS to the PC? May not do anything different, not sure?

Then I disconnected the Power Commander and no more codes.

And there you go. Stinking computer bike likes its own preset numbers. E still pings back and forth even if it's DC current. Maybe I can prove my own theory guessing at this black magic, but notice with just key on, the ping back and forth clears the code. It knows the loop in resistances at each connector of the telemetry.

How the PC caused a code I don't know, just a guess that the 2nd part in the loop pops up as the sub sensor. I want to think of a 3rd [in the] loop, but is it sub/ECU/tps? If you recall Grn's cam sensor being in the loop of a loose crank sensor, that's the only code popping up being the cam sensor and that says; crank/ECU/cam are the 3 in the loop? Love to know.

Could this be a faulty PC?

Don't know if faulty seeing the code pop in and out? I'm thinking it might be a sync problem to TPS. It's not the ECU, not the flash, not the TPS out of sync, nor the sub sensor out of sync to the ECU>>> if no code present.

Do I really need the PC?

Not really. On a technical point to the assfactor, could you feel a difference with the PC out of the loop? No difference, no need. On a technical point on a dyno, this is the only way to grab more HP power, you like to see big numbers, or 'best rich torque' and chase that number. As if you are overriding the flash, and/or enhancing it more.

The ECU is flashed before I bought the bike. Would I need it flashed again?

I'd leave it alone. If you want a hobby, throw the PC back on and play with the maps, laptop in a backpack, sandwich and chips. Ride, park, lap a map, eat, ride, pull over, map, bag a chips, ride, stop, day is over. WOT did you learn?

Signed,
Just Ride It Club

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My symptoms were a timing wheel that went outta whack.Because it had loosened on the shaft.It had 'play' everywhere.Lag/advanced and the rest.Never started the same way twice.Manual timing wheel.Worked great.The screws weren't up to the task though.

If I remember right, when I installed my Power Commander there was a ground wire that goes to the bolt that attaches the coolant reservoir to the frame. also wires had to be repined where it connects to the brain. Worth a shot.
Side note: My Super Duke threw a ABS error when I forgot to connect the air temp sensor when changing to an after market air box/ air filter.

* Last updated by: doug on 3/16/2022 @ 11:41 PM *

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There was a posting on some board long ago about the Power Cammander losing a ground because the instructions showed pulling the coolant bottle bolt for a ground spot. The person with the ground problem then changed the ground to the backside of the coolant bottle where it would be against the frame instead of the bolt head. That person used a threaded rod in the bolt hole then the PC ground wire then a nut to tighten down on the wire then nut and washer on the threaded rod to hold the coolant bottle on.

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Don't over-tighten the coolant bottle fasteners because the plastic will crack. Using the method described by lytnin, you can avoid the need to crank the coolant bottle bolt down too tight. I just used the battery ground screw on the frame to ground my PC5 and never had a problem.

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Turns out the code was gone after I took off the Power Commander. Seems who ever put it on or installed it messed it up. Just a heads up if anyone else has this issue.

62 is subthrottle. Keep forgetting if there are any aftermarket parts on the bike?

Bulletproof rides again.

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