How much fuel comes out when you disconnect the pipe at the pump? Does it run continuously or just a small, residual amount?

I don't remember disconnecting a pipe at the fuel pump....but at the fuel rail...yes...it will 'run' for a few seconds at least.Best have a nice thick rag right there;)

I never get much out when I disconnect the fuel line from the fuel delivery tube under the fuel pump. Less than an ounce. Still, always have a rag under there to absorb as Grn suggested. The rubber hoses on the back of the tank do not release much fuel when removed either.

remove with as small amount of gas in tank as possible.

There is a how-to on this.

Thanks, Grn. I called Mikey, who has removed his tank before and he said very little runs out, just what's in the line. I was concerned the tank would keep leaking, but bupkus came out. There's a slip-clip that holds the line to the pipe coming out of the fuel pump.

Iv'e got it broke down to the point that the throttle body removal is next. I'm wondering if I should just leave the plugs in until I get the head cover off? This is definitely the most complex and dense bike I've ever worked on. Had to take the rad loose and drop it down to get to the bolts that hold the shroud and suction valve covers on, which required dropping the horn. One of the P.O.s did the block-off plates, so that made things a little easier. Also, the secondaries are definitely gone.

* Last updated by: Danno on 1/13/2013 @ 2:48 PM *

Thanks for your reply also, Rook. I did the rag thing. One thing the book said nothing about, but it looks like it would make access to the left side a little easier, and that's removal of the frame brace on the left side.

Ya...ya kind of 'figure' the little ins and outs as ya go along....with the book of course.Some of the stuff probably would be done by a Kawasaki Mechanic...he just wouldn't tell ya most likely.Glad we could help....you're very right...this IS a dense bike...lots of stuff to deal with...but well designed also;)Once ya do some of this a couple of times...it's much easier to know when to do what and how....then...bam...ya break somethin!!!!LOL!!!Just don't scratch yer lower tank paint on the subframe IF you cross set your tank on those.Cover that good and watch the sides where your setting it....I did notice one thing when I pulled my flies from my 14R...the tank...it was fairly full...but it actually seemed to sit in that area much easier...IDK why...but it stayed right in place and never felt like it was gonna suddenly 'slip' and fall.Made wrenching on those sub screws MUCH easier.

One thing the book said nothing about, but it looks like it would make access to the left side a little easier, and that's removal of the frame brace on the left side.

There's a how to on this.]]

the throttle body removal is next.

I'm wondering if I should just leave the plugs in until I get the head cover off?

oh, BTW, there's a How To on head cover removal too I was toild it's best to replace the spark plug hole gaskets in there.

Yeah I have new figure-8 gaskets coming along with the cover gasket and updated O-rings for the bolts. I cleaned the cover in situ and blew the area with compressed air before removing the stick coils. then, I blew out the plug wells and checked with a mirror. Motor turns over very easily with the ignition rotor bolt.

* Last updated by: Danno on 1/14/2013 @ 4:26 PM *

Motor turns over very easily with the ignition rotor bolt.

i had a tiny bit of leakage from that timing wheel cover. I'd suggest using some engine sealant. You will see where it is needed onthe inside edge of the cover. Mostly around the crankshaft sensor. theres a tutorial!

MAKE SURE ya don't install that little rubber covered cable holder in there sandwiched between the two parts...I did that...once.Lucky I saw it before I went riding...yes..it was starting to drip right there.

The rubber plug to the crankshaft sensor is meant to fit in the notch in the engine case and be compressed by the cover when it is bolted down. That is not always enough to keep oil from seeping. The oil does not pool in there but it flies around off the cam chain all the time.

I put engine sealant on the cover where it contacts the edge of the egine case in the areas marked in blue. Those are the potential seepage points.

The bolt hole marked with a red dot also can leak as it goes all the way throughthe engine case to inside the cam chain tunnel. I used blue locktight on that to seal it. No leaks from my crancase sensor cover now. It leaked a tiny bit when new. Seems there was sealant on the cover when I removed it but perhaps it was not applied carefully.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/15/2013 @ 8:17 AM *

I can understand a little sealant on the grommet, but wouldn't the other two locations hold the cover away from sealing on the other areas? Mine had no sealant, but wasn't leaking either. That top bolt was a biotch to get loose even suing a hammer-impacter. It may have had some threadlock on it, I didn't check. I was just happy to get the damn thing out.

..in Rook's pic there...those two cable holders....watch those...they go on the outside under the bolt head.EASY to see em sittin like that...and just bolt the whole shbang together;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/15/2013 @ 6:00 PM *

I can understand a little sealant on the grommet, but wouldn't the other two locations hold the cover away from sealing on the other areas?

Actually, the photo above only illustrates the potential leakage areas. I applied the sealant to the cover where it mates with these areas. I guess it would work either way but I chose not to put sealant directly on the rubber plug (too hard to remove from a chunk of rubber if necessary).

As far as the two upper locations, there is a tiny recess cut across the surface there on either side. It is the mark for lining the timing rotor up at TDC. The mark is tiny but it is a surface irregularity and it could leak. Looked like there was sealant applied there in the factory assembly.

those two cable holders....watch those...they go on the outside under the bolt head.