Does this price seem right? The local dealership said it would be 1.5 hours of labor and at least $110 guesstimated.

I recently changed out the rear sprocket and chain with no issue, but had issues with the front. I'm worried that I may do more harm than good if I crank to hard.

Are there any secrets you all can suggest for getting the front nut loose? Maybe a big name auto store chain rents an impact gun?

Ya gotta ratta tat tat with the impact or use a big breaker bar and a buddy you trust to hold your bike upright.

* Last updated by: Cornelius on 2/20/2014 @ 8:40 PM *

If you and the old lady have bikes, it's air compressor time for the tires alone = $110 goes to the pump. Oh, you have a compressor? Then, $110 goes to buying a decent 1/2 drive [mm] socket and gun. If you can do the back, you can work the front. Weedon't need no stink'inn dealershit over charging you for a 20 minute job.

You might well get it off with just a 1/2" drive ratchet with a pipe slipped over the end if you need extra leverage. I got mine off with a $12 breaker bar and an impact socket.

The real thing to assess is your time, motivation and experience level. This is going to take youseveral hours if you have little experience. I always spend a LOT of time on stuff so I don't screw up. I think it took me about two hours to remove the rear wheel, speed sensor, sprocket cover, output shaft keeper and nut...then the front sprocket. ...and mine came off in textbook fashion, no hangups.

You can do it but it is your time or your money.

Tools. Should have some of that Molybdenum grease and that stuff is very expensive if you get the rael thing.

Be VERY careful wrenching on the sprocket so you do not tip your bike over/off stand. A long bar can be very deceptive about the amount of force it exerts. OR just use an impact. safe.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/21/2014 @ 12:26 PM *

In my opinion $100 for SHOP to take off the front sprocket is a rip-off. I mean, they have all the fancy tools and the compressor and the air gun. Ask them to just knock the nut loose for you and offer them $20. I used to work for several shops as a tech and I'd do that shit for free.

Mad

+1 if you can get them to do it... Pfssss--my dealership manager will almost chase you out if you suggest such a thing. They don't want us to work on our own bikes because they don't like to do things that compete with their sales and service/repair.

you could try it yourself and if it won't come loose, put the cover back on and drive it in to the shop. Tell them you want to see the new sprocket on there before they put the cover on (just so you know they did the work).

did mine with a breaker bar and a impact socket, piece of 2x4 in the back wheel wrapped in a towel to lock it up, just make sure you got a good torque wrench to tighten it back to specs when you put the new one on and bend the washer back up, just do it, it ain't hard jump on in there!

I appreciate all of the feedback... Weather will be nice this weekend I'll have to have at it again. I'm not a fan of rip offs.

That price seems typical but I'd definitely do it myself unless you're a totally incompetent with tools. Apply that $100+ to any tools you might need to do the job and consider them an investment.

As noted the impact wrench is the way to go and you'll soon wonder how you EVER lived without one. If you have an air compressor, get an air impact wrench. If not, the electric ones they make now are looking pretty nice.

The biggest difference between the cheapo ones and the more expensive one, apart from longevity, is MAX TORQUE. I had a $50 one for a long time until I was faced with some nuts that were spec'd at 450 ft-lbs. No budging those with mine so I upgraded to a nicer one and off them came.

True that. I got an electric one from a local harbor freight store for around 30-40 bucks. Did the job. You also maybe able to rent one from you local auto parts store for like 20 bucks. Just make sure you flatten out that little washer around the nut first. Some even get one of those small propane tourches the heT the nut up alil bit. Worse case if you mess up nut, you spend 10 bucks for new nut and washer.

I agree with the replace nut and washer. You'll be really sad if the thing comes loose. As I recall the Service Manual says NOT to reuse either. In my view, they say this sometimes when it's not all that important but the front sprocket, that's really important to stay in place.

eh-- it is a big nut. I doubt the threads get much ware after getting torqued a couple times. Doubt if reusing it will hurt anything and the lock washer thing you just bend over at a different spot. Up to you though. I always advocate for doing a thoroufgh job...I never rank on anyone for going overboard on being careful with wrenching.

I doubt the threads get much ware after getting torqued a couple times. Doubt if reusing it will hurt anything and the lock washer thing you just bend over at a different spot. Up to you though.

That's lawyerage speak as in, 'oh look, the thread locker is torn off the bolt after I took it out. Oh look, it says to replace with new as in, new thread locker comes with a new bolt. As if it's going to fall apart if not new, but you torqued it to spec and used blue-tite on it?'

Oh look, Moe, they don't say to buy new engine case bolts, stator cover bolts, or axle nuts. Don't they have threads too? Oooooh, I get it! Law suits and you didn't read the book if we are discussing a sprocket nut coming loose. Cover your assets!

you didn't read the book if we are discussing a sprocket nut coming loose

looking at the engine from the sprocket side of the bike, the crankshaft to which the sprocket is affixed turns counterclockwise. Ye ol' sprocket nut turns clockwise to tighten. The motion of the motor will tend to keep the nut tight rather than loosen it. ...or so it seems.

The say to replace the sprocket nut...because...it's an elliptical nut.When you install a new one,it forms to the shaft threads like a nice new factory shipped config.The used one won't reassemble in quite the same tightness...but it will work fine...just remember to fold the washer up as recommended.NO LOCTITE.Lefty loosey,righty tighty;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 2/26/2014 @ 12:04 PM *

They say to replace the sprocket nut...because...it's an elliptical nut.

Show me the page number and I'll show you page 11-2 were the only thing to change is the bend over tab, but that too can be reused.

The used one won't reassemble in quite the same tightness...

Are you on the same page with the other nuts and Archimedes principals? Elliptical may be what you mean as a locking type nut with an oval end or a cross-fit at the end the last few threads of the nut. A nylock is another style having that interference fit at the end of the nut.

NO LOCKTITE

Correct. It's 10 parts molly to 1 part oil as a lube between threads.

you guys are all fuckin NUTS

Got it taken care of. I appreciate everyone's input. I'm running with a 16/43 set up now and I'm interested to see what it has in store for me. I took a quick 15 minute ride but with a snow storm on the way decided against too long of a ride today.

Ordered some Leo Vince Oval (carbon on carbon model) slip - ons so once those get in that'll be my last and final "project" for a few months. Or at least that's what I'm telling trying to tell myself and promising to my wife.

Cool.. Hey after I did my gearing, I was a little surprised. I expected the bike would have such a dramatic low end improvement right off of idle but really, it is not that different at low rpm. the bike still needs to get going about 3500-4000 rpm but the hold on TIGHT!