Bike is a 06, 40,XXX miles on it with a PC3.

When I start the bike (cold start) it won't stay running unless I crank the idle knob/cable on the left of the throttle body way up, sound like its bogging down. It stays this way until the motor gets heated up then idle jumps to where it should be, the bike runs fine and I have no issues after it heats up.

Bike has brand new spark plugs
New air filter
Throttle bodies were taken off and cleaned / flushed out.
Fuel injectors were pulled, cleaned with a Motion Pro injector cleaner and function tested. All were good.

Any thoughts on where to look next?

Could check the fuel filter/screen in the pump in the tank, may be dirty or clogged so not enough fuel at low demand at idle. But if it runs smooth otherwise probably not it, just another variable to eliminate

Better you start and slowly ride away. Sitting and waiting for it to warm up is a fallacy. Revving crap out of cold, yes, the pistons will expand faster than the barrels. But slowly riding away? Been doing that since I practically started riding bikes.

Did you check compression? Set the valves first.

Replaced the fuel filter screen in the tank, its clear. I have a friend that works in a bike shop and figured out there's a Kawasaki fuel filter on another bike that is an almost direct replacement for the ZX-14 filter so you don't have to buy the whole fuel pump assembly.

Have not checked compression or valves yet

When I try to ride off before its fully warmed up it bogs and sounds/feels like a coil is bad.
Once its at normal operating temp it runs 100% fine. Is there a temp sensor that changes the running parameters like cars have? The only other problem area I can think of that would be affected by temperature is the valves

* Last updated by: JBird on 4/22/2020 @ 7:36 AM *

PC in the loop?
40k ~ Compression?
Fuel pump (plastic filter is the big black part of the pump) and the screen does not catch what the blk-plastic does and clogs up, but...

... You have a warmed up bike that takes fuel, does not bog when WOT is applied.
No sensor is out of spec or it would code. A code would pinpoint that parameter of which sensor failed, and not necessarily the water temp sensor.
Sparkstick has a code for each cylinder, so can't be a bad stick. Stick does not warm up and run better, say.
Valves do not cause a bog when cold and when warm it runs fine.
Fuel pump does not make the bike bog, warms up and the pump is... see the logical points of elimination?

Variable: PC is out of the loop and test ride.
Take a compression test cold, because when warm, things expand, could rise the compression some.

Neighbor had s minibike that wouldn't run. Brought my comp tester; 65psi. Shot oil in it, 100psi. Ran it down the street thinking the oil would fire it? HA! Pushed it back = 65psi. Why I always test cold.

Coils can fail. If it sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders, verify if that's happening first.
Cold header pipe will point you in the right direction. I had a coil fail right when I set off for a trip. Had to ride all weekend on a Triple.

Mad

"Once its at normal operating temp it runs 100% fine".

Kawasaki manual...'Allow bike to warm 3-5 minutes before starting off'....Runs great warmed up...not so good after cold starting.IDK.I never run my bike(s) just after starting.I've never tried doing that,so I don't know if they would act the same.???I let the fast idle drop back down,then idle about 1-2 minutes.When warm,I don't wait near as long to take off.
Maybe not your issue,idk.Perhaps give it a bit longer to warm up?Maybe check the thermostat.They can go bad sometimes.I'm gentle on my engines when first riding off for about 5 or so minutes.

"When I start the bike (cold start) it won't stay running unless I crank the idle knob/cable on the left of the throttle body way up"."then the idle drops and it runs fine".When it drops down to normal idle,do you reset the idle adjustment screw to where it was(in the 1000-1100 range)?And what pipes do you have on it?PC3 right?It could be a fueling issue in the map.Maybe a tad lean right there at idle?And has it always done this since you've had it?If it has,the mapping MAY be off at idle.The adjustment screw should only be used when the motor is warmed up,at idle.It shouldn't be needing adjustment to keep it running.(at idle when cold).The bike should be revving some,then drop down to idle.
Sounds like you did all the fueling cleaning stuff.
"
Throttle bodies were taken off and cleaned / flushed out.
Fuel injectors were pulled, cleaned with a Motion Pro injector cleaner and function tested. All were good".It was stumbling like it is now before that maintenance?And now still is,correct?Running 91 octane are you?You've checked your throttle cables and such for smoothness and all right?You MIGHT have to set the idle screw just a bit out so it doesn't close down as much.I think I had to do that on my 07.Setting the adjustment cable screw is not the same thing.There's a small screw sitting on that throttle cable pivot where it stops the butterfly seat point.Maybe try that.Then once warmed,reset the idle with the adjuster screw(cable).1000-1100 rpms.That's where I'd start anyway.It's very simple.I like simple...at least you'll know if that corrects it or not.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/22/2020 @ 9:22 AM *

Cold head = Spray is condensed. Atomization is like a few domino's far away, but when the next one drops it does hit as quick. Or say, not as fast as next to each other, which would be a lot of mist instead. But a warm head starts the mist back up, meaning, expands the fuel back to a mist and the domino effect of the flame front is right next the each other is the quicker tap and runs normal.

I fire off and start idling out of the neighborhood. That's my warm up... is not sit and idle.

I'm not saying it's the issue here, but I've worked on people's bikes that came in running on
3 cylinders and they didn't even know it. I even had a 748 come in for an oil change. Found
it running on one cylinder. Broken belt and bent valves. Owner had been riding it that way for over
a year. It could be the coil is not firing cold for some reason. Easy to check.

Mad

If it just started out of the blue I would unplug the PC3 and see what happens. It does not cost anything.

I've done the spray water across the headers test and they all evaporated at the same speed cold or hot. I would think a crap coil would show signs of failure/bog down at a certain RPM (which is what my R6 does). One could be on the verge of tanking I suppose.

Thanks guys, I have a few places to look over now. Provided it doesn't tornado/hail/drop to below freezing this weekend in OK I'll get to messing with it. Think I'll start with bypassing the PC3, coil test, pull the plugs and check compression.

Primary: 1.2 ~ 1.6 ohm
Secondary: 8.5 ~ 11.5 k-ohm

For anyone else is how it goes:
Primary: Stick is facing you, are the male pins at the top. Set meter at X 1 ohm. Touch the +/- probes to each male end. This is just one long wire wrapped around the core. See [url] where it shows both primary terminals at the top? Same deal. Who is cracked, bleeding onto another wind due to epoxy melting between wires, green electrolysis at the male ends because of the copper used.

Secondary: Meter set at X 1 k-ohm, -probe at either male pin (being one long wire), the +probe at the spark plug side.

https://nationalmaglab.org/images/education/magnet_academy/tutorial/ignitioncoil.jpg

Compression: So as not to chase your tail and get that one variable out of the way.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/23/2020 @ 9:04 AM *

Hi everybody
This is my first post on the forum, although having subscribed in 2019. I've been since taking advantage mainly from Rook's and Hub's but also from every other member's contribuition and huge amount of information made available to the forum. Before going any further, let me publicly praise Rook's outstanding work and contribution to every forum member and particularly to every home mechanic such as myself. So, unquestionably, the Oscar goes to...Rook!

So, my bike is a 2006 ZZR1400 (European model), 167k km / 104k miles on it (barely run in, i'd say...), all stock except for Leo Vinci cans just to relieve some weight, not for performance purposes (flies in, never flashed). My riding style is cruising/ touring mode, below 4,5k rpm 99% of the time. Here in Portugal, we don't have drag strips...

Help needed:
Currently I'm having an issue that looks like the OP's, although not exactly the same.
Mine doesn't like cooler ambient temperatures. On warmer weather bike runs ok (my warmer reference point will be around 15-17ºC / 59-63F threshold). On colder days, engine warm or cold it doesn't matter, bike won't idle, it will stall if you don't give it a little gas. Running at cruise speeds, it will feel like its bogging down, judder and misfire, seems like's running on 3 (or 2...) cylinders and fuel economy halves comparing to that at normal cruising speeds, around 4k rpm (consumption rises to 12L/100km / economy lowers to 20mpg; figures at normal operation, cruising speed, will be around 6-6,5L/100km / 36-39 mpg US).
I checked spark plugs (replaced with new ones) and stick coils (primary and secondary windings within spec as per service manual), all are ok. As a side note, for those who replace spark plugs as per the maintenance schedule: mine have 85k km / 53k ml on them and run and look perfectly fine (at eye sight, not with a magnifier)!...
As soon as ambient temp rises above 15-17ºC / 59-63F bike will return to normal operation.
No FI warning ever showed on the display.
I just wasn't able to make it enter into dealer mode and pull off any readings from the ECU and make them show on the display, following Hub's and Rook's procedure explained on another thread (side note: on the self checker plug / Diagnostic System Connector: Pin 4 (BR/W) is power 12V(+); Pin 2 (BK/Y) is ground (-); the other 2, Pin 1 (P) and Pin 3 (LG/BK) I'm not sure which one is what, but at least one of them has to be the K-Line, which gives the diagnostic info. I've tried to bridge every combination except 2-4, of course. Anyone who has the knowledge correct me please, if I'm wrong. WARNING EVERYBODY: DO NOT BRIDGE 2-4!!!)
My ECU can't be removed off the bike without a special tool, because it has some kind of security bolts. They have a really weird head, not Allen, not 6 point socket, they're almost flat with 2 bosses, oposite to each other, It was the first time I've seen this kind of bolt head.
After checking the web and going through forums I'm inclined to think this is an Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor issue. I haven't checked it yet, though, I'm going to in 2 days time.
Any thoughts/advice? Thanks in advance.
Antonio

* Last updated by: zzriderpt on 10/3/2022 @ 8:39 AM *