ok i bought the bike about a year ago and put muzzy magaphone exaust,power commander,k&n filter,timing deg advance ,tre
ran fine change plugs 6 month ago and was running good all of a suden starten missing in first gear.then in all gears
and it will do it in nutruel .it miss like it is hitting the rev limiter but the rpms will still clim and some times it will mis and then rev normal then miss again i romoved tre and power commander and problem still there replace plugs and still having problen and no codes flashing what should i test next or what might it be

I'm giving you MY experience here....CHECK your Advancer.Make sure she hasn't slipped loose in there.My bike "went crazy" as well performance wise.Reset(retightened) the advancer-ran like a champ.Might be it?I did however get some "cam position sensor" codes with mine-a few times during that episode-but not every time.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/23/2010 @ 1:57 AM *

i change all plugs to new drain and refilled tank , the bike is my daily driver this problem started on my way home from work it has 40,000 miles on here and befor this she ran great and the miss will go away and come back during acceleration i have a temp gun and they all read aabout the same small difference about 10 to 20 deg dpending wher i check it on the header and when i installed the timing advace and whent to far it gave a came corralation code , the plugs i pulled out where a little fat but not bad ,not wet , cleaned air filter

* Last updated by: cougarracer on 4/23/2010 @ 1:16 PM *

Did you check the advancer?Since it's started doing this?Are you saying it's giving a code now?Or "way back" when you first installed it?"way back when" doesn't matter anymore-it could be loosened up now.If it's loose in there,it will act strangely at different times-sometimes it will run perfect.Then,in the middle of a ride,it will start doing weird ignition deals.It won't want to start one time,then the next,it'll fire right up.Is this what is going on?The idle is staying put?Sounds like you checked everything you could and corrected them-except the advancer.That would be my next check if it were me.(and it was last year...what a friggin nightmare THAT was).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/23/2010 @ 4:47 PM *

no i hvent check timing yet i will tomarrow,i am at work just wanted to thank you guy for the help so far
valve were checked about 3000 mies ago and were good i do oil changes about every 1500 miles no ticks just a little when fist started in morning after sitting all night after that she all good i think that is the chain tensioner
when i check the timing advance i will get back to you
thanks joey

* Last updated by: cougarracer on 4/23/2010 @ 5:51 PM *

Don't worry Hubster...I'm sure he's getting to that if he hasn't already.That IS good advice I will say.I've done that from your suggestion a few times just to make sure everything was firing okay. (I'm the one who should be "offended" ....he's waiting till TOMARROW to try my suggestion!)

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/23/2010 @ 8:17 PM *

Hey Cougar....when ya check that ignition wheel...you ONLY need to remove the LOWER BELLY fairing.Nothing else to get to it.But that TOP bolt that connects the cover to the case-that one-1/4 drive...1/4 extension...and gently LIFT slightly on the upper fairing edge at that bolt to get it in or out.You won't crack anything doing that-but it will require a bit of finesse(be careful to NOT crossthread THAT one bolt).And when ya tighten those bolts down,make sure(Like I DIDN'T first time)to install those clips(for the wiring)OUTSIDE of the cover-NOT between the cover and case. Go in a crisscross pattern and final "all the way around" tightening sequence(You probably KNEW this anyway).Watch yer torques-don't overdo it.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/23/2010 @ 8:18 PM *

Well...he said he changed the plugs.Changed the fuel.It was running fine..."until"... he was coming home from work.So apparently the motor was doing okay for some time AFTER it's six month hiatus.Yes?I will say-when I FIRST noticed something strange with mine,I was out on the open road with my friend.We just finished carvin up the 57 mile long Kookanusa Highway-very cool....major twisties and open road for HIGH SPEED travel(triple digits).Cruising along at 70 mph or so,suddenly,I noticed the motor sounded different(and NO CODE).Deeper sounding.Not normal,that's for sure.I gassed it-sound still there but no apparent performance probs.It had me concerned though-the way it was sounding.He pulled in for gas-and when I went alongside to park,when I stopped-she started acting like she was runnin out of gas.I turned her off.NO CODE.He filled up,I started my bike(tried to)...it coughed and sputtered...yet STILL NO CODE.Then tried again-boom-fired right up like nothin had happened.Didn't notice any sound issue then.My bud said"you probably blew some material out of your pipe".Ya....okay,whatever.Got home.Tried the next day to start-no go.Cranked and cranked.Nothing...just a smell of fuel(NO CODE).THEN.....again,tried it...started fine.WTF? I'm thinkin...geez-this aint good.Next ride,tried to start it....worked fine.Cruisin along,look down at my fuel avg mileage....I'm gettin 41 mpg!WTF!!!!THIS aint NEVER happened before.Engine sounded strong-not a peep of anything wrong.Temps were fine.Parked to have a smoke.Started back-ya,she started okay.Cruisin along,same as before...look at my fuel avg mileage-friggin thing's readin 29 mpg.WTF?Engine sounds fine.Temps were good.NO MISSES-ever-during this whole three week episode of this going on.She would code ONLY when trying to start and wouldn't fire up right away.But it was hit and miss-other times(at least 3/4's of the time)she would start right up.The central bolt loosened up,as well as the small lockers on there.That makes sense-cause when I installed the unit,I did not torque to spec.Just cranked it down as much as I thought it should be okay.And those three screws-I hadn't locktited em.He said has one on his ride.Sounds strangely familiar to me-his symptoms.And to me-removing that ignition cover and just checkin er out seems the simplest way to at least get the ignition deal settled.He did say it coded.Though it wasn't exactly clear when it happened.But just once now would be enough for me to go straight to the advancer if mine started actin up like it did again...you know what a hassle I had tryin to "find" a broken wire,replaced sensor(which DIDN'T need to be replaced).I was checkin voltages and all that...and everything was comin up book spec.Grounds were fine.You remember.Just tryin with him to at least do that stuff after he makes sure she's firin correctly.It was a BIG HASSLE pullin bodywork off,unplugging fittings,the whole 9 yards.Said his miss happens on acceleration-could be his wheel is moving ever so slightly as the engine picks up revs.That's what mine was doin,without the miss-or at least never HEARD it missing.I did think the Throttle bodies were out of sync however.She would idle fine,then for no reason,speed up a couple hundred,then back down on throttle close.Idle-throttle up(blip)...she would sit at a "cold cycle" idle for about ten seconds or so,then drop back to "almost" normal.I began messing with the idle screw thinking it was somehow not holding the setting.It of course wasn't that at all-or the throttlebody sync.OR the CABLES-which I ALSO replaced!!!!!!Even my mechanic-who KNOWS HIS SHIT couldn't figure out wtf was happening.He "just happened" to notice the timing wheel loose when he was doing something looking around in the ignition area.Can't remember right now why he was looking in there-but he certainly wasn't looking for a loose wheel....his own words on that.My bet's on the advancer-sounds just like what mine was doing,maybe a tad more extreme(the missing part that is).So far,he's eliminated the PC,the TRE-two major possible problems-the third "variable" if you will-the advancer-we BOTH have that on our bikes.His plugs are good-his fuel is good.His idle is shitty.His acceleration is iffy,then fine.He did at one point throw a cam code.He said that"when I went too far". That's the key right there-it's not coding because it's still within range.The ECU will automatically reset the timing to the last known good configuration(mayday mode).But it won't be able to reset when the timing is TOO FAR OUT...that's when she codes.And that's why she'll start one time fine,then not the other time.The wheel is moving as the crank starts and stops.I must say...the central part of the timing wheel,was loose,but not enough to jump a spline.It was the outer wheel that was really moving around..That's why mine would start at times-because the prior ride,it was doing okay when I shut the key off.Other times,shutting the engine off would cause the wheel to turn just enough from centrifugal force.That's why it was a go-no go off-on situation.The wheel kept moving with engine speed and stopping,starting.But mostly she was within enough range for the ECU to correct to a workable setting.That's what I'm seein.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/23/2010 @ 11:25 PM *

ok timing advane had not moved but i did return it to stock and the problem is still there ran it for about 10 seconds and all for cylinders were 185 deg you can here the miss at idle and when you rev it up it still there and no codes at all

cylinder 2 and 4 are a little cooler not by much

put a lucus fuel adative and ran it it smell like fuel when ideling and check plugs and plugs 2 and 4 are darker than 1 and 3 like they are getting to much fuel and the miss is still spuradice under load always there at idle

tested coils and all 4 good and moved coils problem still the same check ignition box ecm found hole in rear inner fender rubbed thru insulation on a 4 wires cousing cross short in cylinders 2 and 4 whitch is why the problem didnt change wityh cyclinders check wires all ok cotted with liqued electrical tape and covered wires with split loom
bike runs great now just got to reinstall all parts i disconnected but it is all good now
thanks for the help
see you latter