Tools:
10mm socket
torque wrench
6 mm L shaped allen wrench

Fork clamp bolts can be reached without removing any fairings by going in above the front fender. It may be advisable to check the the torque by breaking the bolts free just a hair first to free any corrosion or dirt. If this is done, the front should be supported on a steering pivot stand or some other means of support where all weight is removed from forks. DO NOT LOOSEN FORK CLAMPS WITHOUT FRONT BEING SUPPORTED BY SOME MEANS OTHER THAN THE FORKS.

Ohlins forks require different torque specs than OEM forks.

1. Use a 10mm socket and a torque wrench to check the lower fork clamp bolts.
Lower fork clamp bolt torque: 22 ft lbs.
/SM: “Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.”
Check the left and right fork clamps and tighten if necessary.

2. It is not possible to fit a torque wrench and hex tool socket on the upper fork clamp. Remove the two clipon bolts to swing the clipon forward (being careful it does not come off the fork top) so that a torque wrench will clear the control button housing.

3. Check both upper fork clamps and tighten if necessary.
Upper fork clamp bolt on the top yoke is to be torqued to 15 ft lbs.

4. Install the clipons.
Handlebar holder bolts: Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque of 18 ft lbs

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/14/2018 @ 5:29 PM *

Good thing t check if you are going to b doing wheelies.

They won't drop IF the triple tree bolts are secure.The bottom bolts can be completely loose.Just better not "forget" they are loose if you do that and loosen the top clamps!

^^You mean the triple tree bolt shown in the second pic? Right? I would be a little afraid to trust that one bolt but I'm sure it would hold whil e the bike was motionless-----as long as it was tight--I found the one on the right a little looser than I would like. Not sure how tight I got it with my allen wrench but I am quite sure it is not as tight as either of the bolts on the fork clamp. ..but that's why we check these things. First time I checked --last summer, al 4 bolts were torqued to the looser value. IDK if that was factory error or if the top just shook loose. I kind of think the former.

Yes...the top clamp there.The forks will only "drop"(actually,go upwards)only as much as you open that top clamp bolt.They won't like "suddenly "go up" out of control.The forks are tapered at the top,so that saves the forks from just sliding on up.If the top clamps were able to loosen during a ride,and the lowers did as well,the weight of the bike would keep the forks functioning most likely safely UNTIL you noticed something going on.I don't know what that would be,but you'd probably feel her turning in different or something.Then you'd just tighten the top clamp bolts and git yer azz home quick!.Smart...those designers.However....the opposite CAN occur IF the bike is off the front wheel and lifted in a front(steering head) lift.(I think you said that)The wheel/forks CAN slide downward suddenly .I cranked mine down pretty good,I know that.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/6/2011 @ 1:06 AM *

ah- the forkstubes are smaller in diameter at the top to prevent slippage while riding if the clamps should be loose for some reason. they can slide down if the front is off the ground supported on a stem stand. Not likely to slide up.

Good points, blue Thanks for info. I think I will still avoid loosening the clamp bolts unless the front is supported on a stem stand and has something under the wheel to prevent it from dropping. I haven't ever loosened the clamp bolts anyway. Only tightened.

Ya...when I reset my forks for 1" lower,I had to tap the tubes to go up,yep.I did not raise the wheel off the ground,just left it with the bike weight on it.Loosened the top clamp bolts carefully,so it wouldn't just "lower" all at once.It worked good...just took my time and paid attention to the loosening amount.Now....raising it back up...THAT was a tad more intense.I did not have a front stem lift.Luckily,I was able to use my genmar riser blocks as a lifting mechanism.Put that clipon(long) bolt through the riser block,then spaced that,and was able to "push" the fork back down(or raise the frame) using the bolt as an adjuster.Something like that...can't exactly remember right off hand.But it adjusted very well...no drama(except at the very first when I re-loosened the top clamp bolts...she slid down about an extra 1/2 inch...gave me a bit of a start there for a second!).You hear sometimes horror stories about forks dropping on the fender and such.I think you'd need to loosen those top bolts WAY loose to get it to do that.The natural die-cast shape of the clamp...the groove deal...will only open so far...it's pretty secure.I had to get a flattip driver in there and open that groove some on both sides to get er to slip.It's flexible,so the "opening" wasn't like permanent.It will continue to clamp on the fork even if somewhat loose...though I would never ride it like that.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/6/2011 @ 12:10 PM *

I just updated this tutorial because I believe I had previously been misunderstanding the SM torque specs. It is not totally clear what the SM is talking about when it refers to top fork clamp bolt and lower fork clamp bolt.

As you can see, there is a top and bottom bolt on the fork clamp at the bottom of the triple tree. Also, there is a top fork clamp with a bolt that is a part of the upper yoke.

Have a look at pages 13-10 and 13-11 in the service manual for exact wording. It is not clearly written.

I believe the "bottom fork clamp bolts" are the four hex head bolts (2 on each fork) on the triple tree bottom. They all should be torqued to 22 ft lbs. The top and bottom bolts should be tightened in alternate fashion a little at a time so that they will tightened the clamp evenly, 22 ft lbs.

The "top fork clamp bolts" are the allen head bolts on the top yolk. They should be torqued to 15 ft lbs.

that's all.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/25/2013 @ 9:48 PM *

Done