Anything you do to loosen the schmutz increases the risk of said schmutz getting into the cylinder.

got it.

Find 14v as fully charged, right? And cook it after the comp test. Where are the directions?

The Shorai 12Ah provides 14 V when fully charged by the bike or the charger(as specced by Shorai for this battery). I just can't see what Voltage it's producing now because the LOW FUEL sign is flashing on the meter. I plugged up the Shorai charger as a precaution. I believe it would start the motor even after being drawn down by the test. I cranked sh!t out of it until it backfired one time after winter sleep. For the first start of the season, you need full CHARGE, not MAINTAIN. It will start right up after storage if you see 14 V on the meter.

No need. It's just oil and the area is [water cooled] so sealed it is...

Second opinion confirms the first. It stays schmutzy until the head is removed some day. Should be fine as long as I remove plugs at least every 7.5k miles. I'm sure threading the test adapter in cleared the way a bit.

Also, carabuser posted a link to a good page by NGK. You don't need anti-seizing agent on their plugs.
Near the bottom of this page. http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=A1C405C0-D56B-84E2-142EC796F44B2885&page=4

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/11/2015 @ 11:10 AM *

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Rook after you get done testing compression again, if you're still low you might try this. Since your bike has mid-range miles (lets face it, most bikes unfortunately don't hit 50k miles) you might try something like Wurth Engine Flush and Cleaner. They have a "motorcycle" specific formula. Anyway, a rider with an older ZR-7 gained around 5-10 psi back and retested compression after 600 miles and was basically the same.

Might be worth trying. The way your spark plugs look, possibly a little oil fouled, might be indicative of your rings no long seating cleanly against the cylinder wall. This will hurt your compression as the rings aren't effectively sealing the cylinder.

Just a thought. Hopefully it was just problem with the fitting not seated tightly or something.

Thanks, Vic. I may try Wurth if the second test is still low but regardless, I can't tell by riding the bike. I'm sure it would be years before I felt the bike was getting weak enough to warrant re-honing and re-ringing.

I have a hard time believing opening the throttle will make that much dif at cranking speed but we might be surprised. The Shorai 12Ah might be more of a culprit. It never stops cranking but it does not crank as fast as the stock battery. The test should be done at 300 rpm but IDK if this battery is capable of that. I think I will hook up the busa battery for the second test just to eliminate that possibility.

Given the video posted earlier on this thread and Hub's coments about Oring sealing, I no longer thinh there was a problem with real snug with fingers only. Wrench tight would be way too much.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/11/2015 @ 8:34 PM *

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Getting ready to do compression test #2 tomorrow. This time I'll remember to open the throttle. I've been mulling over using the busa battery instead of the undersized Shorai I have in the 14. The Sorai might not crank as fast as I remember the OEM battery. Does anyone have any thoughts on the importance of a strong cranking battery? If it cranks faster, will that increase compression? On the one hand, I think maybe just a little, on the other, probably not. The point at which the cylinder lets compression leak past the rings is going to be the same no matter how fast the piston moves. .......but Kaw does spec 300 rpm for a compression test.

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importance of a strong cranking battery?

Only important if your legs are weak, tendency to be of breath quickly... run much?

If it cranks faster, will that increase compression?

Yes. You want that needle pushed as fast as possible to get it to its stopping point.

is going to be the same no matter how fast the piston moves.

Yes. The engine pumps out the same number, but you have to wait for the tester's needle to stop to show its number.

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Since the bike isn't going to start, is it safe to hook a charger up to the battery while you're cranking?

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Yes.

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Sure, a charger is often recommended but I do not believe most chargers out there will charge fast enough to bring a dead battery back in a convenient time. It would help though a little to keep the battery up though. IMHO, if the ibke was ridden for 45 minutes and the air temp is 70 F or more, there will still be enough heat left in the motor a couple hours later to finish a test. ...but it would be best to do all cylinders back to back of course. I did cylinder 4 two hours after 1, 2 and 3 and 4 was highest compression. Go figure.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2015 @ 4:29 PM *

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A second battery all charged up would be a good back up if you think the one in the bike may die on you. It's really only 5-6 crank/cylinder to get max pressure.

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Here's my latest #s. Not a huge improvement but all are in spec. Dang that Shorai sounds like it turns awful slow. However, I'm not about to repeat this test for another 10,000 miles. Maybe I will try a stronger battery at at that time.

I will post a video here soon in which you will hear the cranking. Maybe some one can tell me if they think it sounds slow. For now, the test is done. The tut's on the way.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2015 @ 4:30 PM *

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Compression test tutorial all done. Check out the OP of this thread. Thanks for all the help, fellas.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/20/2015 @ 8:42 PM *

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done.

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