I would like to replace my clutch and front brake lever perch pins with ones that are made of anodized gold Ti but I do not see Ti perch pins available.

I took some measurements of the pins and it looks like I could take an M6 x 40 fully threaded Ti bolt and thread on some M6 x 8.6mm OD collars. If I reduce the OD of the collars to 8mm, they will fit the holes in the levers and the perch. Put an aluminum nut on the bottom and you have lightweight, gold perch pivots + no more goofy screwdriver slot on top, you have a genuine socket cap with hex.

I know the aluminum collars will wear a lot quicker than the OEM chromed pins but my levers are aluminum and the perch pin holes have lots of life left in them. Of course, I’d have to take the levers off periodically and check them and the pins for wear.

The only thing that seems a bit questionable to me is that the steel part of my pin would be M6 surrounded by an 8 mm aluminum collar where the OEM pin is 8 mm solid steel all the way through. I’m sure the OEM pin has more strength than what I had planned for my Ti/aluminum combo idea. Is my idea safe enough? The clutch lever gets pulled all the time.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/1/2020 @ 8:17 AM *

By perch pin you mean where the levers pivot?

Also, your new "pin" is going to be titanium?

Correct?

So you are going to mill down an aluminum collar to 8mm (diameter) so that it will fit in the perch pin pivot hole. Basically make a sleeve? Then place your titanium bolt through the 8mm hole (sleeve) and use it as your new pivot pin?

Correct?

I'd think the aluminum sleeve would be fine as the lever is already aluminum.

To me, the weak point would be the Ti bolt. In this application, steel would definitely be stronger. However, I do not know how much pressure the Ti bolt would be experiencing in this case. It may be plenty strong enough. However, if it does break it might be at the most inopportune time.

I believe you have quite a few Ti bolts on your bike. You ever had any issues with them breaking or deforming?

If not then I'd say you should be good.

That's all I have...............

Beauty does come at a price! ( ha ha )

* Last updated by: BIGO70 on 4/1/2020 @ 10:22 AM *

Go for it. Use copper anti-seize and pack the threads and dowel/collar. Blue loc-tite the nut.

Ideal setup would be to goop glue the inside collar and that thread length. This way the collar does not rub down the threads. Collar wise, the OD is going to probably remain stationary and you'll elongate the lever's hole. Collar wise I'd use a steel dowel pin. Those are used for centering and stabilizing the barrel to the case, and the head to the barrel. Early engine families or dirt bike engines might have a variety of sizes.

Yes, BIGO. You have all my info correct.

I believe you have quite a few Ti bolts on your bike. You ever had any issues with them breaking or deforming?

Go for it. Use copper anti-seize and pack the threads and dowel/collar. Blue loc-tite the nut.

https://www.probolt-usa.com/aluminium-collar-m6-thread-8-5mm-o-d-10mm-length.html

Thanks for your input fellas. I'll make a big announcement when the Rook Racing Featherweight Perch Pins go into production.

I think I will and I can go with locktite on the collars too...

Let's walk this one thru first. I pull a designed OEM mounting pivot bolt with a 'flat blade head tip/pin-shaft/threaded end' and replace it; by sliding a threaded dowel into lever, then into the perch. I then screw a fully threaded ti bolt down the threaded dowel [or collar] and nut the ti bolt at the bottom:
1. Our dry run says the dowel drags up the threads and maybe follows it back down, so that's each and every time.
2. Count the touch points or drag points. That's:
a. Ti threads.
b. Dowel's threads.
c. Dowel's outer body.
d. Lever hole [elongates no matter the pivot].
3. Let's now lock it up:
a. Yeah, the RRFPP dowel fits in no problem.
b. Yeah, the ti bolt threads all the way thru the dowel with locker applied.
c. Yeah, the white lithium spray coated everything when I let the locker dry.
d. Yeah, the new levers I want to replace that come from; Saw It Coming Blade Shop, with the motto, "Call the tooth count and count your money goodbye".
e. Yeah, I wondered that too. If you lock the dowel with the ti bolt, how do you unscrew the bolt back out?
f. Yeah, I can see it now. I sawed the head and nut off, but the drilling to knock off the threads that are still in the gap of the perch? Just think of drilling that bottom threaded perch side and not bang at the perch threads.
g. Yeah, I will saw X is the head and the threads at the bottom, the Y, right thru the lever, perch, dowel, ti bolt.

Got the picture yet?

Re-engineer, or remain stock... Huston, we have a problem.

1. Our dry run says the dowel drags up the threads and maybe follows it back down, so that's each and every time.

e. Yeah, I wondered that too. If you lock the dowel with the ti bolt, how do you unscrew the bolt back out?

f. Yeah, I can see it now. I sawed the head and nut off, but the drilling to knock off the threads that are still in the gap of the perch? Just think of drilling that bottom threaded perch side and not bang at the perch threads.

I think it will work. The only problem is that those collars might come loose and turn. If so, they get stronger locktite or if necessary, JB Weld. As long as it's strong enough to take the stress of pulling that clutch lever a couple thousand times, it should be ok. I think it would show evidence of bending before it broke---as long as it was removed and checked often enough.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/2/2020 @ 4:38 AM *

Well FCOL!!!! Somebody beat Rook Racing to the punch!! I just googled and I se Hays and Brembo both have gold Ti lever pivot pins. I will have to do some recon on this. If they fit a ZX-14 perch, I'll get them.

I had it all wrong. Here I'm thinking a whole different design. Senior moment. My thinking was the collar is inserted into the lever first like a harley perch was the thinking, but now I see you can drop the collar down at the top of the perch. No, the RRFPP can still work.
1. Drop the collar down into the perch. Grind the collar down so it lays flush at the top of the perch's hole.
2. L-t the bolt w/washer and screw it down without the lever in place. Let dry.
3. Unscrew the bolt. The collar should come out with the bolt.
4. Copper anti-seize the collar, lever hole, and screw the collar assembly down and tighten. Use the OE locking type nut with the steel spring.

The example goes like this. You have a chain master link. The stationary pin is the collar. The roller is the lever's hole. The chain does not 360, so that curve around the pin/collar is the elongate wear... ain't getting around it(pun).

2. L-t the bolt w/washer and screw it down without the lever in place. Let dry.

Use the OE locking type nut with the steel spring.

I will look at the pins that are available from Brembo and Hays. If they fit, I will give them a whirl. It won't cost more than making up the RRFWPPs. If I need to make my own, I have a plan though.

Thanks, Hub.

Found em. Zeta makes them, Superbike Unlimited sells them. The fitment chart says 06-11 ZX-14 so these will fit. For the price, might as well go with it and give up on my homemade pins idea. I'm ordering today and I'll report back here how I like them.

https://www.superbikeunlimited.com/zeta-z-titanium-pivot-pin-nissin

I'm sure those pins will be much cheaper in the end considering all of the time you would have spent fabbing up your own.

They look good.

Persistence does indeed pay off ;)

I'm sure those pins will be much cheaper in the end considering all of the time you would have spent fabbing up your own.

Yes considering the time it would tale to make my own, they will be cheaper. They are not as cheap as the ad makes them look. You have to buy two and then the cheapest shipping option is $20. Then a couple bucks for tax. A set of two costs $52. That's what I would expect if Pro-Bolts made these. Oh well, had to have them. I'll post when I gey then on Wednesday.

I got my Zeta Z Ti pivot pins. HOLY KEE-RAP exquisite anodizing as good as aluminum and I have no doubt these babies are as light as aluminum too. They're barrel drilled!!!!! Took 2 months from Superbike Unlimited but the guy told me thordered a couple extra units so order now and you'll probably have them in a week. $50 but worth every cent.

I'd show pics but my pics don't work anymore.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/6/2020 @ 6:53 PM *