Marco,
Some figure this out so quick, they have a knack for it. I'm like you. To this day I struggle with electrics. The schooling is that good part you still have on the bench. That part says, I schooled you, I warned you guys. I'd probably buy the part too, so don't feel bad. This is how you amigo the basics.
1. Part is short internally, meaning, the wire in and the wire out is broken someplace inside?
2. My connectors have to be touching each other or how can it keep following that path to the end?
3. The end game is the ground game. This is your third variable:
I think of it as a starting point are my two wires.
A. In wire: That one wire is laid to rest we call that the ground wire. Usually, those are black or green for earth.
B. Ho-Ho-Ho, Grn Jobber: This is that resistor on the ground side of that in-wire. That is you float that has a rheostat kind of drag past over the next wire, something changes. That is your resistance reading. Did the next resistance match spec?
C. Out wire: That has to be the hot side, right? Hot is red for (+) is the battery's one side, right? Ground is the other, we are done with the fun due mental moves.
You are now due an explanation. How can that part be out of spec, you install the same part, it reads the same dash blink. Explain, due tell. Take one more pulse of that patient and change the battery of that ohm meter, the other reads back in spec with the new part? HOw is that ohm meter possible to do that without changing to a new 9v or whatever the meter uses?
See how that hat trick is not happening here on my end? WATT you are saying now is... I see a phantom spike, I think it's a loose wire. It can't be another out of spec part someplace, if this [new one] is in spec. I think I saw a spike for it cleared and then it spiked out again, we are back to no joy. I have a good known part for sale, it was my ohm meter battery. Yes, the original part is within spec.
See how that black is the start wire is ground? We have more connectors needing the in/out check. Hot says, I'm throwing code. We know the fuel gauge spike says an amigo has set in. It is not that sophisticated as the ape's code. It says check front left winker, not some [winker code flashing] for all sides.
My fault I didn't check the bulb first. It was that simple, I had to unravel my modified wiring integrity for nothing. I made a solid connection and I questioned it via a ping to the dash. My [in/outs] were fine. It was the jobber that cut the flow. Close the wallet, there is no jobber problem, you read down to here.
See, it could be another jobber down the next in/out sensor flow, not the one you changed. If that part you changed did squat? Your wallet done got 'Grn'd!' Or is it, 'blue in the face?'
* Last updated by: Hub on 12/6/2011 @ 10:40 PM *
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