My 14 has 9,000 miles and I went to start it the other night, weather was in the 90's, and it had the gawd awful noise then it went away as I revved the engine up some. Hydraulic cam chain tentioner? Exhaust leak? I can't feel any exhaust leak but it will make this loud noise (sounds like exhaust leak) everytime I start it. Any suggestions would be helpful or mention of an old post I can go read.

Thanks! Danny

everytime I start it.

Even if bike is warm ?

Only problem is it just starting doing this last Friday after sitting for a couple days??? No reasoning to me...

Mine went 15,000km before the cam chain noise statrted but would stop 2 seconds after start up and only if the bike had been sittingh over night(no oil up top). I installed the APE. Noise gone. Not sure if it's the same noise you have. Mine did not sound like a exhaust issue. That one sounds much different and would not go away after a few seconds.

Oil glass looks Good ?

G'day mine is only 4500kms old, as romans said dont bother above all dont over rev yer mtr not good for it,from cold !! anyway after a short period it settles wnen the oil gets all around the mtr mate

I hear you on the start up noise...my 08 got's 9300 mi and sounds like a rap when 1st started, when cold it last til it gets to temp then its gone... A hot start does the same for a sec then it's gone... I'm assuming its the common cam chain I been reading about?
I read something that mentioned changing the chain to cure it?
Reminds me of my old Nissan pickup with solid lifters in it...thing was crazy loud til it came up to temp.

Thanks guys... I have it in the truck and headed to the shop later this morning. I ran out of experience!!! LOL Gotta find out how to fix the noise!!!

Bra...you don't "fix" the factory cam chain tensioner! You REPLACE it....with one of these........OR....better yet,one of these...

So blue, I got myself one of these:

and it came with no instructions whatsoever. Do you know if there are any instructions for installing this posted anywhere? I haven't been able to find any.

Thanks. -bg

Okay BG...it's straightforward and simple.First...remove stock tensioner.Pull it straight out.Okay,now get a dowel,something you can mark a line on with.Look in the tensioner hole.See the shoe?Okay...take that dowel...stick it in there JUST till it hits that shoe.Now mark the dowel at the outerflange(the engine case there).

Okay...now take yer APE...loosen the locknut.Good.Turn the "adjuster bolt" in (in your hand)till it's the length of the dowel mark.Comparing from the APE tensioner mount flange(the flat part that mates up against the engine case... to the tip of the adjuster bolt that contacts the shoe).Okay...the mount body MAY need to be lightly sanded to remove the black paint for an easier install.Turn the locknut in to secure(but not "lock")the adjuster bolt.INSTALL THE O-RING from your stock tensioner...make sure she's free of filings and such..After sanding(if you do that),slide the APE in...STRAIGHT IN.You may need to tap it in there with a hammer(a small one).Just don't get it angled at all....you don't want to scour that interface of the case and tensioner body.Line up the mount holes.Okay....install the mount bolts.Tighten to snug(final torque).NOT TOO MUCH...don't want to strip those holes!

NOW.....loosen the locknut some...not much.Is the adjuster bolt freely moveable?Okay....Get ready....Hold the adjuster bolt wih your left fingers.Turning clockwise is gonna put tension on the shoe.Start your bike(assuming you're standing on the right side there).Immediately,notice any sound.Clacking is normal....before adjustment.It should be pretty close to adjusted if you did the dowel thing.IF YOU HEAR NOTHING...IMMEDIATELY BACK THE BOLT OUT SOME UNTIL YOU DO GET A MILD SOUND!If it's making A LOT of noise,turn in QUICKLY.But small increments.JUST TILL THE NOISE DISAPPEARS.NOW...stop your engine.Okay...now RESTART...and listen.There should be NO NOISE period coming from the chain.Nothing.If it's still making noise,turn in gently till it stops.No further.Stop the engine.Restart....no noise?...okay....BACK THE ADJUSTER BOLT OUT 1/4 turn.Shut off engine.Restart...noise?Readjust some more.Once it's stopped making ANY noise,tighten down the locknut being careful to NOT let the adjuster bolt turn as well.Yer DONE!!!!!

Let er run for about 5 minutes.Check for seepage at the mount point.Wipe off anything and rerun if there is something noticeable there.If not,Voila!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 9/17/2010 @ 12:22 PM *

Thanks, blue. -bg

Well I should get my bike back Fri. or Sat. (waiting on part) I'm having a new tentioner put in. If it does it again I'll put the manual one on it. Thanks!

You know...it's not too late to cancel your tensioner order.I hate to say it,but if your NEW tensioner DOESN'T make startup clack,you'd be about the first one I'd ever heard of.Did they tell ya how much it was gonna be?they gotta pull the valve cover off...probably replace the gasket(at least 60 dollars there for a new one).Hopefully,they'll get it back together without any problems...but since they're gonna be in there anyway,why not have em add two 3/8ths,M10 stainless washers to your left side valve cover bolts?Two each.Pulling the valve cover is asking for the infamous "valve cover leak" syndrome.I don't mean to sound gloom and doom...but that valve cover seepage is a COMMON issue with our 14's.You may be experiencing it NOW...go have a look.Right there at the left hand(kickstand side)tip of the valve cover at the front,side there.The washers are the best way to stop it from occurring(IMO).But you won't want to torque the cover bolts back down to spec with those in there.(the "washered" ones).Your mechanic or whoever will most likely try to torque em back down to spec.If they do,they're askin for a snapped bolt.There's a technique to snugging those two down after putting the washers on there.Gotta be careful how tight ya get those.