Got my baby back from my mechanic.Running just great.24,225 miles-these are the valve #'s.....#1 intake:.006,.006.Exhaust:.009,.008.#2 intake:.007,.007.Exhaust:.009,.009.#3 intake:.006,.006 Exhaust:.009,.009. #4 intake:.007,.006.Exhaust:.009,.009.

Excellent readings after nearly 25k miles.
Was this the first valve service?

Those were the numbers before he made any adjustments? Was this the first valve inspection?

Kruz

First inspection.So they're good?Yes-measured on cold engine.He also checked the throttlebodies-said they were all in sync.

Doesn't get any better than that.

Runs like a, Fridgeardare.

U Go!

I'm thinking that these bikes ..if not ridden hard ..are good for 40 thousand miles before a value check ..All my clearances were in spec at 24000 miles. My brother who is an engineer said it was likey that they had not alterred at all from the factory

* Last updated by: painterdude on 8/17/2009 @ 9:44 PM *

I always check valve clearances around the whole base circle of the cam to get the lowest spot if I think they will be too tight. Mfgrs recommend two places for convenience to check the valves. That is check half with the engine here then spin it 360 and check the rest. But I figure if the spec can be obtained at any point on the base then it is good why waste any extra effort. My auto has shims over buckets same basic setup and I checked it a 100k miles and I changed 1 shim. checked it again at 190k all still good. They just don't change much I mean how much can the valve and seat wear? That is some of the hardest metal in the engine.

yea you're right, there isn't much there that will cause them to rub down enough to really change ur clearances, I think they made them from the same metal the valves and cams, so the similar metals aren't going to affect each other if they are the same hardness