Just bought an 07 that has a high/low beam issue. If switch is in low position when key is turned to on position, the low beams (outer) lights activate but high beam indicator is at about 50% brightness. switching position to high beam activates center lights and high beam indicator lights to full value but then the high beams are stuck on till i turn bike off. Changing the position of the switch after high beams are activated does change brightness of indicator light but no change in headlights. Also if I ride with switch in low position i get headlights cutting in out. steady on highbeam while riding. I'm very familiar with rebuilding switches and pulled the switch,cleaned contacts, regreased with dielectric grease. switch seems normal. Is there a headlight relay that may be the culprit or bad ground maybe? electrical problems suck and some extra brainpower would be appreciated.

Okay..welcome first off...please clarify this.The HIGH BEAMS are on the OUTER two lenses.The lows in the center two.For whatever that's worth...(not bein a smart azz here).IDK what that could be.You're getting juice to both lamp assemblies(highs and lows) on a certain switch combo.Stock bulbs in there?Okay....how about any buzzing noise...when motor is off,yet power is on.What I mean is....turn power on....crank motor ONLY till the lamps engage.Do not allow to start running...leave key on.NOW..switch back and forth.Any buzzing anywhere?You might find your "fault" this way?

Having a dimming of the "brite" indicator...sounds like juice is being pulled from somewhere in the lamp circuit.Maybe a socket ground?Any broken bulbs(cracked) or maybe one not all the way secure in there to the metal lamp socket?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/18/2011 @ 12:54 AM *

This is intriguing. Someone has prolly switched the harnesses on your bike to change the brights' position. Either that or what you assumed from the start what was your day times were really malfunctioning Highs. I don't have time to check to see if there is an old fashioned relay controlling the highs and lows but I'd bet you have a open ground wire somewhere and it's interfering with it's voltage and it's behavior.

Lighting System
Headlight Relay Inspection
•Remove the inner covers (see Inner Cover Removal in the Frame chapter).
•Take off the headlight relay [A] (both sides).
•Set the hand tester to the × 1 ohm range and make the measurements shown in the figure.
Headlight Relay [A]
12 V Battery [B]
Special Tool - Hand Tester [C]: 57001-1394
If the tester readings are not as specified, replace the
headlight relay.
(CAUTION:Use only Hand Tester 57001-1394 for this test. An
ohmmeter other than the Kawasaki Hand Tester
may show different readings. If amegger or ameter
with a large-capacity battery is used, the headlight
relay will be damaged.)

Testing Relay:
Criteria When battery is connected 0 ohms
When battery is disconnected infinite ohms

* Last updated by: Edgecrusher on 5/18/2011 @ 5:50 AM *

I lied I had time.lol

Ya...I was gonna mention those two rectangular relays there...but I wasn't sure IF they were for the headlamps.Edge has got ya covered on those relays Geeb6.They slip off and out of their little "stays" there.

Thanks for the info to start me off guys. And thanks for the newbie welcome. I kinda figured someone may have played around cause the lowbeams being the outer lights just didnt make sense to me but previous owner claimed he had a problem before with the switch so I took him at his word. I'll have to email him a thank you.Im gonna head for the garage and start doing some checking into it and I'll keep ya posted on the progress. Guess i better make sure he didnt monkey with anything else while Im tearing stuff apart. Again I really appreciate the tech advice< its great having very knowledgeable help.

Well Its fixed!!! so many symptoms, such an easy fix. it was a bad connection at the relay. cleaned and greased connection, works perfect now. Low beams in center, high on outer. I hadnt even noticed the lights came on BEFORE touching the starter button till I went out tonight. now they stay off till starter is engaged as should.
Guess i dont have to email seller after all. Sure seemed like wiring had been played with cause of all the different symptoms.Im dyin to ride it cause ive only gotten a 1/2 hour ride since i bought it cause its rained every day since i picked it up, but what a half hour that was! previous bike list is 81GPZ1100,82GPZ1100,84GPz900r, 96ZX1100,98ZX9,96ZX1100(missed it so i bought it back), 2002 Hayabusa midnight falcon. So you can tell I'm a Kawi fan from wayback lol. This thing is incredible! first question i got was which pulls harder, this or the Busa? So far im pretty sure its this monster lol. Busa had a Hindle full system and power commander, this has a Muzzy Titanium full system and power commander so its a fairly even comparison. Now I need some sunshine and backroads cause i was definately suprised at the Busa's ability in the turns.
Thanks again for all the info, if you ever need paint questions answered im happy to return the help. I do custom motorcycle paintwork in my spare time.

Glad it was easy. Electrical stuff usually is, the hard part is it's not always obvious.
As far as the paint advice, I just might take you up on that. I just painted my bike for the first time over the last winter and I'm really into airbrush work. I'd like to see some of your work. I'll show you mine if you show me yours'. lol

Beautiful work there Edge.I aint into skulls and such,but still...VERY NICE!You're quite talented.Excellent!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/19/2011 @ 6:53 AM *

Not too bad at all there Edge. did you say that was your first paintwork? Im not much for skulls either but damn fine job. Its all about the tricks. as in every job, once you know the tricks it opens whole new doors for you.Im still a novice behind the airbrush myself but im learning new tricks all the time to make things much easier and much more realistic. You rip effect is good but with a little tweaking it would really stand up. Tryin now to upload some pics but I paint better than i use a damn computer. I hit upload photo, browsed my photos, hit upload and now i dont see them. wtf?

* Last updated by: geeb6 on 5/19/2011 @ 7:10 AM *

The ZX11 was my first attempt at the realfire way back when. ive changed my style greatly since then, The ZX9 is about halfway through my style change. Every time I do a job I see where I could have done something just a bit different and make some mental notes for the next project. my first rips were disasterous,but Ive twaked them quite a bit. That Diamond plate rip was just a quickie on a friends kids racecar. coulda put alot more effort into the diamondplate but doin that stuff takes forever and drives ya nuts so i stopped with the general effect since it would be back for more paint in a matter of weeks from racing.
The prostreet truck was a complete overhaul. it was two tone blue(typical old man chevy truck) Did all body work prep and colorchange.had along way to go but it got there.Im not crazy about the way the owner made me lay the flames out on the side of the truck but they get what they want, and the truck gets alot of respect. Oh yeah, that whole cab corner and rocker panel were crushed from a rear end collision.

* Last updated by: geeb6 on 5/19/2011 @ 7:33 AM *

Great airbrush work there guys, I'm still at paint by numbers standard lol. That's an amazing talent you have there.

Yo Hub...I think he got er dun

Man,you airbrushers are just awesome.WAY cool work...both of ya.Wish(honestly)you lived around here somewhere.I'd have ya paint my Blue baby with some of those ghost flames and such.REALLY bitchen work you guys.That green and red(orange) flame work is the best I've ever seen.How much for a 14?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/19/2011 @ 9:04 PM *

Thanks Blue, I usually get around 1500. for a full out flame like either of those. Variables are if there are any areas of damage, and color of flames determines how many layers and how many candy colors i have to use. The 11 took three base colors and three candy colors to create and the 9 only took one base and one candy color just done in multiple layers to create different shades of Kawi green. I dont try and get rich on my bikes but I use quality paints and they do take time. Here are a couple pics of an R1 I did a complete flame on for 2500 to give you a view of the variables in price,time,and effort. I actually had to wrap the frame up and do all airbrush with bike together to carry the flow correctly. Sorry for the Yamaha on the forum lol.

Ya...that's what I'm talkin about.Sweet man.I'd do a tad less on how far they actually move rearward,you know,on each "bodypart set",but THOSE look friggin NICE!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/19/2011 @ 11:50 PM *

Very clean, Geeb. I just stepped up to automotive finishes within the last year and I cut my teeth on textiles. I actually haven't painted many 'items' so to speak as just practicing on canvas through the winter months. Finding time is the big issue. As you hinted at, the hard part isn't the painting but the prep work to get to the painting stage. Sometimes that puts off a job for a long time for me or it never gets done at all. That is why I haven't tried any jobs for moola yet. I have negotiated a few, but I just don't have time ATM. So I just relegate myself to personal projects. I had a hard time deciding what to do with my 14's paint because I wanted it to turn out great but I also wanted a challenge and to be able to say yeah I did that! I was going to do flames but that just seemed too overdone. So at the last minute(as it seems most my decisions turn out) I decided to make a tear with the CF coming through. The design problems came in the fact that I did not use any transfer paper to lay out the design. I did it the hardest and messiest way, using 3/4 inch green tape and over lapping it. Then I drew the design. cut out the CF. Taped it back up. Cut the tear portion out. Painted the tears while not really having any idea where the shadowing would work. Then taped it back up again and went over the CF and shadowed to set it back from the tears. I think my tears would have been more convincing had the base color not been the black so that I would be able to shadow them and make them pop. That black by the way is just the Flat Spark OEM paint with gloss clear. I learned some about shadow placement on the actual tears themselves to make them look like they're waving, but it was too late by the time I had all the tape torn off the nose piece. Every time I taped the thing up it took about 45 minutes to cut the design back out and the first taping prolly took near an hour and a half. The hardest part with the tears was the curvy-ness of the piece where-as I think it would be 100 times easier on a flat piece to execute. Not sure if tears are something I would care to do again,lol. Another frustrating thing was cutting through all that overlapped tape when you don't want to cut through into the paint underneath. And then pulling it off in one piece. UGH! But I had a good time and can't wait to do it again.
as long as we are at it I'll add few more pics of my stuff just for fun.
This was an old red pool table stool from the '70s which belonged to my dad when he was alive and had been sitting in my pole barn in the dirt for years. I cleaned off the mold and cut the rotten ends off the feet and painted her up. This was my first custom piece with solvent paints. BTW, I like skulls, their not the only thing, though. It's just one of those things that when you sit down and start to doodle. Everyone has something they gravitate to when they doodle and skulls just come out of my pen the easiest so I tend to paint them more often...I like evil death.

A canvas I did for my step-dad 4 his B-day.

what the stool almost ended up as lol

I like those Edge. especially the first one. I definately prefer using the automotive paints in my airbrush cause the flow and control is much better than waterbase. The rips are very tricky indeed. yeah shading is everything on them, and shading a black background is impossible but with the right shading on the rip itself, it can be pulled off.
I like using transfer tape fo my projects. you can get it from a decal supply shop. Its the tape they use when they cut decals to apply to the front of the decal so they can apply the decal to a surface. it comes on rolls in a wide variety of sizes. i use 4 inch alot but i have up to 18 inch to use for my big stuff. It doesnt have a strong glue to it so removal is easy and clean (you may see a pattern when you remove it but it will dissappear with your clear). You can draw your pattern on it very easy, and with a fresh blade it cuts like butter. For something like the rip i did on that kawi green piece i could even reuse the same cuts i already used cause it lifts off so easy. Big timesaver there.
And i know what you mean about how you gravitate to one thing or another. Every painter i know has their thing lol. Ever since i did my first "realfire" job it seems like thats all i get asked to do anymore. nice part is theres no taping involved but it gets old after a bit. I gotta flame a 65 GTO this weekend and im really not looking forward to it. The owner saw the R1 and went nuts over the flames and he saw a 40 ford i did in the red/orange/yellow flames so he decided on a blue background with blue realfire.
I have alot more pics of other stuff i've done but they are stuck on my other computer that caught a cold and i need to get it fixed. Im still learning new tricks all the time and im practicing portrait work right now. Getting that right is very difficult but im learning lol.I have a paintjob in the back of my mind for about 6 years that ive wanted to do and i think my new toy is gonna wear it but im only doing it if I can do it perfect. Hint: Beware the Killer Klown! but like I said getting portrait work perfect is something very very few airbrush artists get correct.

By the way the Chrome effect on the RZ is great man! good use of color.